Salt & Spine

• In Their Words: Viola Buitoni on the Timeless Taste of Bottarga

  Enjoy this excerpt as Viola Buitoni reads from Italy by Ingredient. As Viola recounts, one vivid memory stands out from her childhood. It was a late September day when her mother took her to a fishmonger in Orbitel, nestled by the southern Tuscan coast. The experience, accentuated by the salty breeze of the lagoon and the familial presence, introduced her to bottarga—a cured fish roe delicacy—that has lingered in her kitchen and heart for fifty years.Viola fondly recalls stepping into the courtyard, her mother’s gentle guidance leading her to bottarga, an ingredient as much about tradition as it is about taste. She vividly describes their ritual of shaving it over buttered toast with lemon upon returning home, which later graced their spaghetti—a testament to Bottarga’s sea-like essence that mirrors the salt, wind, and shells. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

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• How Viola Buitoni turns simple pantry ingredients into Italian magic

  Exploring Italy by Ingredient with Viola ButoniIn this episode of Salt and Spine, host Brian Hogan Stewart welcomes Viola Butoni to discuss her first cookbook, "Italy by Ingredient." Viola delves into her rich Italian culinary lineage, tracing back to the Butoni pasta and bocce chocolate. Growing up surrounded by fresh, homegrown produce and moving to New York, she transitioned from restaurant kitchens to owning a food shop, and eventually becoming a beloved cooking teacher. Viola's cookbook integrates her Italian roots with California's agricultural bounty, aiming to guide home cooks in exploring authentic Italian flavors with pantry staples. Throughout the episode, they discuss Viola's cooking tips, her unique recipes, and the creative process behind combining traditional and innovative Italian cuisine. The show also features a culinary game and an excerpted recipe narrated by Viola.00:00 Welcome Viola Buitoni03:08 Family Legacy and Food Heritage05:17 Childhood and Early Food Experiences08:22 Moving to New York and Culinary Beginnings11:20 Starting a Catering Business13:43 Transition to Teaching and Italy by Ingredient 15:42 The Concept of Italy by Ingredient 29:07 Choosing the Best Meat for Stew 29:41 Creative Rice Recipes 32:44 Pork Tenderloin in Bread Crust 34:43 Anchovy Enthusiasm 37:40 Chicken and Rabbit Recipes 40:24 Cookbook Inspirations 44:45 Italy by Secret Ingredient Game 49:08 Conclusion and Farewell This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

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• In Their Words: Sohla El-Waylly Reads from 'Start Here'

  This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

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• Sohla El-Waylly is teaching a new generation how to cook

  Episode 168: Sohla El-WayllyThis week, Sohla El-Waylly joins us to #TalkCookbooks! I was so thrilled to have Sohla join us in studio for a chat about her career and her debut cookbook, Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook. In this episode, we hear from Sohla about her childhood, growing up in the San Fernando Valley and watching her mother prepare elaborate, multi-course Bengladeshi dinners for dozens (sometimes hundreds) at a time. And despite a phase as a picky eater, Sohla realized early on that she enjoyed working with her hands—from building furniture (lots of clocks!) to, eventually, cooking.After culinary school and working in fine dining kitchens, Sohla found herself gravitating towards food media, working first with Serious Eats and then Bon Appetit. While not her initial career objective, Sohla has carved a space in the competitive food media world, celebrated for her on-camera work and creative approach to culinary history.With her cookbook Start Here, Sohla created a playful-but-informative tome (600+ pages!) that emphasizes teaching culinary techniques for both sweet and savory cooking. And she’s intentionally done so in a way that many such technique-driven cookbooks before it haven’t: by rejecting the notion that European culinary technique are supreme, ensuring the book includes recipes from a wide range of cuisines and diets. 🎙️ | We had a great chat with Sohla—and of course, we put her to the test in our signature culinary game! Find this episode here on Substack and anywhere you get your podcasts. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

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• Lara Gilmore on building an Italian hospitality powerhouse

  This week, Lara Gilmore joins me to discuss Slow Food, Fast Cars, the latest book from her and her husband, chef Mossimo Bottura.The book tells the story—through photography, essays, and of course recipes—of Casa Maria Luigia, the boutique inn (albergo) opened by Lara and Mossimo in 2019. Once here, a restored 18th-century villa offers a dozen guest rooms, uniquely decorated with art from Lara & Massimo’s personal collection. From there, the property unfolds: meticulously landscaped orchards and vegetable gardens supply the casual kitchen, led by Osteria Francescana alum Jessica Rosaval, and the on-site restaurant, Francescana at Maria Luigia, where Rosaval and team offer a nightly tasting menu showcasing nine of Massimo’s most iconic dishes. Nearby is the “playground,” where you’ll find a pool table, a gym, and most visibly Massimo’s collection of cars and motorcycles. And Casa Maria Luicia breathes the region, down to every detail: guests staying on the property will find hunks of Parmigiano Reggiano and bottles of Lambrusco greeting them in their rooms.This dichotomy of fast/slow appears often in Massimo’s work. Perhaps most known is his dish, Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano, which has been an evolving presence at Osteria Francescana for decades. “It’s about celebrating the slow passing of time,” he tells Forbes, “with a fast and contemporary mind.”In Slow Food, Fast Cars, you’ll find recipes like:Gnocco Fritto, the classic Emilian fried dough, in this case topped with mortadella, whipped ricotta, and extra-aged balsamic vinegar. (“Once you join the fraternity of gnocco fritto,” the authors write, “it is very hard to turn back.”)Smoked Beef Short Rib, a less traditional way of addressing the short rib cute in Modena, but one that at Casa Maria Luigia is paired with a sauce built from smoked fresh apricots and marigold vinegar.Tiramisu, an “untouchable classic” that the team serves in small, individual-sized glass jars to guests.An ML Pantry section that offers infused waters (Fennel Water!), preserved fruits (Amarena Jam!), and other conserves, oils, vinegar, liqueurs, and salts. 🎙️ | We had a great chat with Lara—and of course, we put her to the test in our signature culinary game! Find this episode here on Substack and anywhere you get your podcasts. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

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