The Perfume Making Podcast

• Eau de What? - Demystifying Perfume Concentrations

  This week, Karen is tackling a question she's asked all the time, especially by those transitioning from aromatherapy to natural perfumery: “What’s the deal with concentration levels for leave-on and rinse-off products?” It’s a topic surrounded by myths, often fueled by social media posts or 'how-to' guides, and the conflicting advice out there only adds to the confusion. That’s why, in this week’s episode, Karen will set the record straight and share everything you need to know about concentration, so you can step confidently into the world of natural perfumery. KEY TAKEAWAYS One of the biggest misconceptions around this topic is the idea that you can only use 1.5% for a leave-on product and 3% for a wash-off. Karen busts this myth and explains what numbers you should be aiming for. Many people think that blending a scent for a room product is different from formulating perfume, but this could not be more wrong. Karen explains why the process is the same, but also points out some differences. The key to getting the fragrance you want is understanding your materials, not hitting targets. Karen gives various examples of how different products are best served with different formulations. Safety regulations also play a part when deciding upon the concentration of your materials. Karen shares a brief overview of this topic and provides you with valuable resources so you can understand this area fully. BEST MOMENTS “Fragrance is fragrance, regardless of what medium you dilute it into.” “It’s not about the amount of fragrance that you can use in each different product category, it’s about the materials that you use in the formulation.” “In higher end products, you have a much higher fragrance load, because people expect more performance from a more expensive product. ” VALUABLE RESOURCES Short Masterclasses Spreadsheet Download Studio Classes Episode 16 - Navigating Safety Regulations  Episode 58 Understanding MOCRA  Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   Website ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

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• The Art of Weaving Time - Crafting Order from Chaos

  After a well-deserved break, which was extended by a week, Karen is back. During her time off she took part in ‘Hampshire Open Studios’, a scheme where artists across Hampshire open up their workshops to the public. Karen decided to run a pop-up perfume bar and actually learned a lot. She also had a lot of downtime and was able to reflect on its importance. So, in this week's episode, Karen is sharing her learnings from both these events and her overall message of creating a healthy work life balance. KEY TAKEAWAYS Karen is used to teaching people who want to learn about perfume. What she discovered with the pop-up bar is that most of the people visiting were there out of curiosity. She shares how you can adapt your offering to this type of customer. One thing Karen noticed is that there was a huge inconsistency with the number of people who visited and the length of time they spent in the studio. She gives suggestions on how you can make the most of this. Ideas come thick and fast when you're creative, and most times we feel the need to act on them straight away. However, this just leads to burnout. Karen gives her top tips on how to manage your ideas in a time-friendly manner. On top of the ideas you generate for your business, there are also the creative projects that you want to do for yourself, which are equally important. Karen discusses how to make that all important ‘time for yourself.’ BEST MOMENTS “If you’re considering doing a pop up, be clear about whether you’re there to entertain or educate.” “The more you step away from your ‘day to day’ the more creative you become and the more ideas you have.” “The idea of running your own business is to love what you do and really immerse yourself in it.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

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• Rest - The Most Underrated Note

  After 110 episodes, week in, week out, on top of 3 ongoing courses, authoring her latest book, a family trip to France, and a family wedding in Spain, Karen has decided to take a well-earned break over August. That’s why, in this week’s brief episode, Karen is talking about the importance of stepping back and taking some time to let life happen. From following up on projects that you’ve promised yourself you’d do for months, to just taking a little time to experiment for yourself, Karen is going to do it all this August, without doing anything. KEY TAKEAWAYS Karen gives an overview of her new book and what you can expect from it, but also, how it builds on the work in her previous book. Despite being a huge advocate for stepping away and doing something for yourself, Karen has realised recently that she hasn’t taken any ‘me time’. She talks about the importance of this time and what she plans to do with it this summer. During her summer break, Karen is taking part in the ‘Hampshire Open Studios’ programme. She outlines what to expect, how to find her, and when you can visit. For those of you who love to listen to the show week in, week out, don’t worry, Karen has you covered. She lays out her plan of how to keep you listening and entertained over August. BEST MOMENTS “Sometimes the best thing is to step back and let your senses recalibrate.” “Take a break and take in the world. Try and smell what is around you. It doesn’t have to be about making perfume, it can be just about experiencing scent around you.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Hampshire Open Studios Perfume Making 101 Studio Classes Online Course Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

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• The Tincture Trap - Why Tinctures Often Fall Flat

  This week Karen is addressing a question she gets asked all the time regarding the use of tinctures in perfumery. The short answer to this question is that tinctures don’t work. But, with so many people using this process, there has to be something to it, doesn’t there? In this episode, Karen gives you a comprehensive lesson on tinctures from early history to the way they behave in perfumes, and even how the sperm whale plays a part in the whole process, so that you too can become an expert on tinctures and their usage. KEY TAKEAWAYS What exactly are tinctures, how do you create them, what is their role, and why do people seek to use them in perfumery? Karen gives a crash course on all things tincture. Historically, tinctures were used in perfumery, and this is part of the reason most people still think they are a viable method today. However, Karen reveals the truth of the origin of tinctures. From scents breaking down to the onset of mold, there's a lot that can go wrong with your perfumes when using tinctures. Karen gives an overview of the main problems and why they occur. Ambergris is a material that does actually require tincturing. Karen explains why this material works with tincturing and how to get the best out of it. BEST MOMENTS “Originally, tinctures were used as a base and not as an absolute or essential oil.” “The idea you can tincture any flower and get a usable material is a modern idea and it’s also not true.” “Creating a structured, repeatable, well balanced fragrance will need materials that are stable and are not going to go off over time.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

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• Too Much of a Good Smell - The Myth of Longevity in Perfumery

  This week on the show, Karen is finally addressing an issue that has been annoying her for years - the obsession with extreme longevity of a fragrance. There is a theory that the longer a perfume lasts, the more desirable and worthwhile it is - but Karen is calling that a myth. In this week's episode, Karen is here to explain that just because something doesn't last, that doesn’t mean it’s bad. Instead, she argues that perfume is meant to be savoured in personal moments—it's something for yourself, not for others. The real challenge lies in how to embrace this idea during the creative process without sacrificing your work. KEY TAKEAWAYS Recently, consumers and perfumers have begun to confuse durability with quality. Karen breaks down why she thinks this is happening and why it is bad for the fragrance industry. Karen explains why the beauty of a perfume is not in its longevity but in the smaller moments that make you realise why you’re wearing it in the first place. When somebody makes a scent they love, but doesn’t last a long time, they try to add materials in a desperate attempt to create longevity. Karen explains why this never works and why it will destroy your scent. Adding materials that fade away can be an invaluable tool to creating a unique scent. Karen explains why this is and how to achieve this. BEST MOMENTS “Perfume isn’t a marathon, it's a moment, an experience. Something that you enjoy whilst it’s happening.” “The obsession with longevity is drowning out the subtle approach.” “Don’t start with longevity as the goal. Start with the perfume you want to create.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Perfume Making 101 Masterclass   Materials Mastery   Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/

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