After Hours Skin Clinic

Are retinoids ruining your skin, or transforming it?

From viral misinformation to real clinical evidence, this episode tackles the biggest retinoid myths, like whether they thin your skin or cause inflammation.

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid give you a step-by-step guide to using prescription retinoids safely and effectively.

What You’ll Learn in This Episode:

Do retinoids thin the skin? (Spoiler: no. This episode covers what they actually do)

The difference between retinol vs prescription retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene

Why retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing and acne

What “retinization” and retinoid dermatitis really looks like

How to manage:

What purging is (and how long it lasts)

Why your skin might react differently in cold UK weather

The biggest skincare mistake: combining retinoids with exfoliating acids

Why SPF is essential when using retinoids

How to Use Retinoids (Dermatologist-Approved Routine)

A step-by-step approach to minimise irritation:

Apply to dry skin (wait 20–30 minutes after washing)

Avoid sensitive areas (corners of nose, mouth, eyes)

Start slowly and build consistency

Use the “moisturiser sandwich” technique if needed

Try short-contact therapy for sensitive skin

Keep your routine simple—avoid over-exfoliating

Retinoid Side Effects Explained

Retinoid dermatitis: dry, red, flaky patches (often around nose/mouth)
Purging: temporary breakouts as skin turnover increases
Sensitivity changes due to environment, illness, or product changes

Products mentioned:

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

Avène Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream

Peptide-based moisturisers (barrier-supporting)

Hydrocolloid spot patches (zit stickers)

Niacinamide (around 4%) serums

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Send in your questions!

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid tell us absolutely everything we need to know about shampoo and what it is doing to our scalps.

They answer all our most-asked questions on choosing the right shampoo and preventing and fixing scalp issues, as well as how to avoid over-spending. This includes:

What is a shampoo and what is it made of?

What are the main ingredients in shampoo? 

Should you trust shampoos that contain ingredients like argan oil, naiacinimide, caffeine or hyaluronic acid? 

Marketing tricks that shampoo manufacturers use 

What the thickness of your shampoo actually means

What you should know if you have a sensitive scalp (SLS warning, eczema and psoriasis)

Pacifying agents…what are they and what do they do to your shampoo?

How does the pearlesence, color and texture of shampoo actually impact its effectiveness?

Which medicated shampoos are best (Nizoral 2% Keotconical shampoo)?

How to deal with dandruff scale and itch (including amazing studies that show promising results)

Top tips for protecting your hair and scalp when using strong ingredients

How the temperature of your shower affects your hair

What everyone should know about the 'No-Poo’ movement (aka hair training)

Products mentioned:

Head & Shoulders Classic Clean Shampoo

Nizoral Anti Dandruff Shampoo 2% Ketoconazole  

Sam McKnight Shampoo 

Pureology Hydrate Shampoo 

Send in your questions! [email protected]

Watch us on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic

Follow & Connect with us on socials ⬇️

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Melasma can be one of the most frustrating skin conditions to treat and one of the easiest to accidentally make worse.
In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid take a deep dive into melasma, a common but often misunderstood form of hyperpigmentation.

Emma and Ellie explore why melasma develops, why it’s so persistent, and the critical role that sun exposure, hormones, and genetics play in triggering and maintaining it.

From pregnancy-related pigmentation to the impact of visible light (not just UV), this episode explains why managing melasma requires a long-term, consistent approach, not quick fixes.

You’ll learn:

What’s happening in the skin in melasma

Why melanocytes become overactive and long-lasting

The role of UV radiation and visible light

Why daily sunscreen is the most effective prevention strategy

Evidence-based treatments including hydroquinone, tretinoin, and azelaic acid

When oral or topical tranexamic acid may be used

The limits of over-the-counter skincare

Why laser and light treatments must be approached with caution

They also share practical advice on managing melasma day-to-day, including realistic expectations and ways to minimise its appearance.

Key takeaway: Melasma is manageable but only if you consistently address the root cause, especially UV exposure.

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic
Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠
TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic
Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Exec: Eve Streeter
Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

How much sun do you actually need for vitamin D? Does SPF block vitamin D production? And can low vitamin D cause hair loss?

In this episode of After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explore the science behind vitamin D, its role in skin and overall health, and the truth about sun exposure.

From medical guidance to common myths about SPF and vitamin D deficiency, they break down what the evidence actually says, and what it means for your daily routine.

You’ll learn:

How vitamin D is produced in the skin (and why UVB matters)

Why most people in the UK need supplements in winter

How much sun exposure is enough and why more isn’t better

Whether sunscreen affects vitamin D levels

The best dietary sources of vitamin D

Safe supplementation and dosing

Why sunbeds are not a safe option

The link between vitamin D deficiency and hair loss

Emerging research on vitamin D, inflammation, and immune health

Emma and Ellie also discuss large-scale clinical studies exploring vitamin D’s potential role in reducing autoimmune disease risk and improving health outcomes.

💡 Key takeaway: You don’t need prolonged sun exposure for vitamin D and supplements are often the safest and most effective option.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Follow & Connect with us ⬇️

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

Send us your questions! ⬆️

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Thinking about dermal fillers? In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, London Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down everything you need to know about facial fillers, from benefits to serious risks.

As two leading experts, they get questions both in-clinic and out. In this video, they answer your most asked questions on fillers:

What are dermal fillers and how do they work?

Do fillers dissolve or migrate over time?

The truth about hyaluronic acid fillers vs biostimulatory fillers (Sculptra, Radiesse)

Can filler be reversed safely? The risks of hyaluronidase

Real complications: granulomas, biofilms, and long-term filler presence

Can filler cause “pillow face” or stretch your skin?

Is filler safe and who should you trust to inject it?

UK regulations: why anyone can inject fillers and what to look for (CE / UKCA marking)

Rare but serious risks: vascular occlusion, tissue death, and blindness

Plus: Would Emma and Ellie have filler themselves?

This episode is essential listening if you’re considering cosmetic injectables and want evidence-based, medically qualified, un-biased advice.

📍 Recorded in Central London

📩 Send your questions via Instagram or email

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/@AfterHoursSkinClinic 

Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Email: ⁠[email protected]⁠

⚠️ This podcast is for information only and not a substitute for medical advice

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices