After Hours Skin Clinic

Antioxidants are everywhere in skincare but few ingredients are as well-studied, misunderstood, or overcomplicated as vitamin C.

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid revisit one of our most requested topics: topical vitamin C. They break down the science behind how vitamin C works on the skin, what benefits are genuinely evidence-based, and how to use it properly for maximum results.

From collagen production and pigmentation to oxidative stress and UV protection, this episode explains why vitamin C remains the gold-standard antioxidant in dermatology and why drinking it is not the same as applying it to your skin.

This episode also covers:

What antioxidants actually do at a cellular level

Why vitamin C is different from other antioxidants

The only form of vitamin C supported by strong clinical evidence

Ideal strength, formulation, and pH for effectiveness

Why vitamin C should only be used in the morning

Common formulation mistakes that make vitamin C ineffective

How packaging, expiry dates, and stability affect results

Which skin types benefit most and who should be cautious

If you’ve ever wondered whether vitamin C is worth the investment, how to choose the right one, or why some formulas work and others don’t, this episode gives you clear, practical, science-backed answers.

Products mentioned: 

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic 

Skinceuticals Silymarin CF Serum For Blemish Prone Skin 

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Gel For Skin Discolouration

As always, this podcast is for educational purposes and does not replace personalised medical advice.

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

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Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

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Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Do you really need a night cream…or is it just clever marketing? Here’s your evidence-based, dermatologically approved answer (it’s more interesting than you might think).

In this episode of After the Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid reveal what our skin is actually doing while we sleep and why nighttime is a critical window for skin repair, barrier recovery, and long-term skin health.

Emma and Ellie explain how our skin behaves differently at night compared to the day, and how aligning your skincare routine with these natural processes can significantly improve results.

You’ll learn:

What happens to your skin overnight (and why it matters more than you might think)

How the circadian rhythm controls skin repair, inflammation, and cell turnover

Why skin loses more water at night and how to prevent water-loss

Which ingredients work best at night, including retinoids, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, emollients, and occlusives

Why vitamin C should generally be avoided at nighttime and used in the morning

How melatonin supports overnight skin repair

The real evidence behind peptides and where they sit compared to retinoids

How to build a night routine that supports barrier health without overcomplicating things

The episode also breaks down the confusing world of retinoids. From tretinoin to retinol and retinal, explaining what actually works, what’s less potent, and how to use these ingredients safely and effectively.

This episode includes a paid partnership with Avène, featuring discussion of the Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream, a product the hosts genuinely rate for its evidence-based formulation.

…If you’ve ever wondered whether night creams are necessary, which ingredients matter most for your night time routine, or how to make your skincare products work harder while you sleep, this episode will give you clarity  without myths, fear-mongering, or hype.

Products mentioned: 

Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Multi-Intensive Night Cream

Medik8 Advanced Liquid Peptides

The Klira Special

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

_____

Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Cold weather can wreak havoc on your skin. From dryness caused by central heating to wind and irritant scarves, winter can put serious stress on your skin barrier. This episode is one from the archive and it explains why and how your skincare routine needs to adapt when the cold weather sets in.

Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down exactly what happens to your skin in winter and how to protect it. Using practical, evidence-based advice, they explain how to keep your skin hydrated, calm, and glowing throughout the colder months.

You’ll learn:

Why winter damages the skin barrier and increases dryness, irritation, and flare-ups

How central heating, low humidity, and wind affect hydration

Which skincare ingredients to pause (and which to prioritise) in winter

How to use hyaluronic acid, peptide moisturisers, and SPF effectively in cold weather

Why consistency matters more than adding lots of new products

How winter habits like scarves, skiing, alcohol, sleep, and diet impact your skin

Simple dermatologist-approved tweaks for dry, sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-prone skin

Whether you’re dealing with flaky skin, breakouts, sensitivity, or dullness, this episode offers clear, realistic advice you can actually stick to, no overcomplicated routines required.

Products mentioned:

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Dermo-Pediatrics Kids Ultra Light Invinsible Fluid SPF 50+

Trinny London, Bounce Back Intense Peptide Moisturiser

The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer

Allies of Skin Peptides and Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment

Youthbomb Biologic Collagen Peptide Cream


SkinCeuticals H.A INTENSIFIER (M2)

Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2)

_____

Have any questions? Send them over to [email protected] 

Find us on Instagram @AfterHoursSkinClinic

_____

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

What would the PERFECT day for your skin look like - from morning to night - if nothing else got in the way?

No commute. Unlimited time. Unlimited resources… and no stress. Just pure evidence-based skin health.

In this final episode in our Golden Rules of Dermatology series, Ellie and Emma build the complete Skin Health Blueprint - a full day of skincare, lifestyle choices, routines and rituals that support glowing, resilient skin. You’ll hear the ideal morning routine, the best timing for exercise, how sleep quality transforms skin, and surprising habits dermatologists actually do (yes, brushing your teeth in the shower is on the list).

Simple, realistic, and rooted in science - this episode shows how small daily choices add up.

What You’ll Learn:

The dermatologists’ ideal morning routine for skin health

Why sleep is the foundation of good skin

The surprising benefits of brushing your teeth in the shower

Best order: brushing, cleansing, moisturising, SPF

What to eat (and avoid) for a skin-friendly diet

The truth about coffee and rosacea

Which exercises are best for your skin (and which aren’t)

How movement reduces cortisol and boosts circulation

How humidity, sweat and sports environments affect skin

Nighttime routines and why enjoying your skincare matters

Follow & Connect

Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Email: [email protected]

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production. 
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Not all skincare needs to be expensive - but some things truly are worth the investment. In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Ellie Rashid and Dr Emma Craythorne walk you step-by-step through your routine to work out where to save, where to splurge, and how to make smart choices for your skin and your wallet.

From cleansers and moisturisers to antioxidants, SPF, tretinoin and haircare - this episode breaks down the products, treatments and formulas that genuinely deliver results. You’ll learn how to avoid hype, identify evidence-based ingredients, and stop wasting money on products that don’t work.

If you’ve ever wondered what’s actually worth it, this episode gives you dermatologist-approved clarity.

What You’ll Learn:

The truth about cheap vs expensive cleansers

When you should splurge on antioxidants

Affordable moisturisers that truly work

Why SPF can be worth the investment (and when it isn't)

The real cost vs benefit of prescription-grade tretinoin

Overhyped products and gadgets to avoid

How one prescription routine saved a patient thousands in clinic treatments

Evidence-based night routines that maximise skin longevity

Products mentioned:

CeraVe (cleansers)

Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF

SkinCeuticals (general vitamin C range)

CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast

Avène Tolerance

Aveeno Baby Therapy

Altruist (body and face SPF)

Altruist Hyaluronic Acid SPF

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVmune 400

Avène (SPF range)

The DayScript by Klira

Lancôme SPF 50

L’Oréal Elvive (shampoo/conditioner)

Pureology

Kérastase

Oribe

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

Follow & Connect

Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Email: [email protected]

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices