After Hours Skin Clinic

From Jennifer Aniston’s peptide confessions to unregulated online vials sold for £5, teenagers asking for acne fixes, and DIY under-the-skin injections, peptides are e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on the worrying, unregulated world of injectable "longevity" peptides and separate real pharmaceutical science from social media hype.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie break down what a peptide actually is, why GLP-1 weight-loss medications (like Ozempic and Mounjaro) have created a halo effect for unsafe knock-offs, and why DIY under-the-skin injections carry massive unmonitored risks. Plus, they examine the truth behind copper peptides (GHK-Cu), why that viral blue liquid injection might be a complete waste of money, and the startling results of clinical studies that the beauty industry ignores.

Episode Highlights:

The Jennifer Aniston Effect: How celebrity skincare confessions can fuel an unregulated online frenzy.

What Is a Peptide? Deconstructing the science of amino acid chains, from essential insulin to GLP-1s.

The Unregulated Black Market: Why £5 internet vials labeled "for research purposes only" are a health disaster waiting to happen.

BPC-157 & Small Animal Studies: Why rat tendon research does not translate to human safety or skin rejuvenation.

The Truth About Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Debunking the myths around wound healing, acne, wrinkles, and reversing gray hair.

The "No Side Effects Reported" Trap: Why non-drug products lack mandatory reporting systems for adverse events.

Topical vs. Injectable: Why that viral blue copper peptide serum looks pretty on TikTok but lacks solid clinical backing.

Key Questions Answered:

Are injectable peptides bought online safe or effective for skin aging and longevity?

Do topical copper peptides (GHK-Cu) actually cure acne, reduce wrinkles, or stop gray hair?

What is the difference between prescription GLP-1 peptides and unregulated DIY peptide vials?

Want to learn more about peptides? Listen to our episode 'Peptides: What Are They, How Do They Work, and Should You Use Them?' on Apple, Spotify or YouTube.

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

Listen on Spotify: After Hours Skin Clinic

Listen on Apple Podcasts: After Hours Skin Clinic

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Navigating skincare during pregnancy can feel like an overwhelming minefield of misinformation, fearmongering, and conflicting advice. This week on the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the latest clinical evidence to bring expectant mothers complete peace of mind.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie run down a definitive A-to-Z list of popular skincare ingredients: from tretinoin, retinol, and hydroquinone to azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C. They explain the difference between localised skin application and systemic absorption, break down why you shouldn't panic if you used a retinoid before finding out you were pregnant, and share the exact ingredients dermatologists rely on to manage pregnancy acne, melasma, and rosacea safely.

Episode Highlights:

The Anxiety of Pregnancy Skincare: Why fear-based advice causes unnecessary stress and how science guides safe choices.

Topical vs. Oral Retinoids: Why you should stop prescription tretinoin and why over-the-counter retinol are not advised, but why accidental use of topical retinoids isn't a reason to panic.

The Hard No Ingredient: Why hydroquinone must be strictly avoided during pregnancy due to high systemic absorption into the bloodstream.

Managing Hormonal Acne & Melasma Safely: Why azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and low-dose glycolic acid are dermatologist-approved pregnancy powerhouses.

Navigating Acids & Bakuchiol: Understanding the safety thresholds for salicylic acid (2% limit) and the latest 2026 data on bakuchiol.

Nipple Balms & Newborn Safety: The single evidence-backed ingredient safe for breastfeeding babies (and why it makes the ultimate lip balm).

Key Questions Answered:

What skincare ingredients are strictly unsafe to use during pregnancy?

Is it safe to use salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or azelaic acid while pregnant?

What should I do if I accidentally used a retinoid before realizing I was pregnant?

Products Mentioned:

Klira (Custom prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)

Lansinoh Lanolin Nipple Cream / Lip Balm

Azelaic Acid (Topical treatment evaluated for pregnancy safety)

Hydroquinone (Prescription agent strictly not advised in pregnancy)

Benzoyl Peroxide (Topical antibacterial ingredient cleared for pregnancy)

Salicylic Acid (up to 2%) & Glycolic Acid

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–15% at pH 2.5)

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments
💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

From jaw pain caused by "mewing" to extreme internet trends where young men take hammers to their face, the internet’s obsession with "looksmaxxing" is going far beyond a basic skincare routine. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid investigate the bizarre, dark, and often dangerous underworld of extreme aesthetic manipulation.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the medical realities behind softmaxxing vs. hardmaxxing, the psychological impact of online body ideals, and why trying to "mew" or "bone-smash" your way to a chiselled jawline is a recipe for permanent damage. Plus, they explore how these online trends exploit vulnerability, the dangerous black-market use of prescription skin-bleaching ingredients like hydroquinone, and why true attraction is so much more than skin deep.

Episode Highlights:

The Medical Reality of 'Mewing': How a 15-year-old’s unexplained jaw pain led Dr Ellie down the internet rabbit hole of DIY facial re-shaping.

Softmaxxing vs. Hardmaxxing: Breaking down the line between healthy self-care and extreme physical alteration.

The Danger of 'Bone Smashing': Why hitting your face with a hammer triggers soft-tissue trauma and swelling rather than structural bone growth.

Facial Nerve Damage & Fracture Risks: The permanent clinical consequences of unmonitored facial trauma.

Black-Market Hydroquinone: The dangerous rise of unsupervised skin bleaching and the risk of irreversible ochronosis.

Beyond 2D Aesthetics: Why online image trends exploit psychological vulnerabilities and distort real-world human connection.

Key Questions Answered:

What is looksmaxxing, and why are young men resorting to dangerous DIY face reshaping?

Is "mewing" or "bone smashing" medically safe or effective for creating a stronger jawline?

What are the clinical dangers of using hydroquinone without a dermatologist's supervision?

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

From high-end night creams to cheap and effective cleansers, what do skin specialists actually buy with their own money? This week, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on their personal shopping lists, revealing where they like to splurge and where they save the most when it comes to skin health and the right products or procedures.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the truth about luxury vs. high-street skincare, why muscle-building exercise changes dermal thickness, and the surprising mental health "glow" that comes from joy, relaxation and movement. Plus, they break down why expensive collagen powders fail to deliver, which in-office laser technologies are actually worth the investment over home gadgets, and their favorite budget-friendly drugstore staples.

Episode Highlights:

The Science of Exercise & Dermal Thickness: How resistance training releases muscle myokines that directly boost skin structure and sleep quality.

Sensory Joy vs. Active Ingredients: The real reason Dr Ellie splurges on her night cream (and how to layer it with prescription actives).

In-Office Lasers vs. At-Home Gadgets: Why dermatologists skip handheld home devices in favor of Alexandrite, Nd:YAG, and CO2 in-clinic treatments.

The Lymphatic Drainage Myth: How targeted massage techniques support fluid flow and overall relaxation.

Dietary Collagen vs. Eating the Rainbow: Why expensive collagen supplements fall short compared to whole-food nutrition.

Dermatologist-Approved Budget Staples: The exact drugstore cleansers, body creams, and anti-dandruff shampoos Emma and Ellie buy on repeat.

Key Questions Answered:

Do expensive night creams work better than drugstore moisturisers, or are you just paying for fragrance?

Are at-home skincare devices and laser gadgets worth your money?

What are the best affordable cleansers and body moisturizers recommended by dermatologists?

Products Mentioned:

Klira (Bespoke prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)

Niance Night Care Regenerate

Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Cream

La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M

Byredo Hair Perfume

Dyson Airwrap & GHD Hairdryer

Ziip (Nano-current facial device)

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser & Cetaphil Rich Night Cream

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

E45 Cream

QV Skincare Range

Head & Shoulders Shampoo (Classic Original & Citrus Fresh)

Find The Times article mentioned in the episode here.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production. ⁠
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Do collagen supplements actually work?

Collagen powders, drinks and supplements promise plumper skin, fewer wrinkles and more collagen, but what does the science actually show?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down what collagen is, why we lose it as we age, and whether taking collagen orally can really improve your skin.

They examine the evidence behind collagen supplements, discuss UV exposure and lifestyle factors that damage collagen, and explain which skincare ingredients and treatments have stronger evidence for supporting collagen.

You'll learn:

Whether collagen supplements are worth the money

What happens to collagen as you age

How UV exposure damages collagen

Whether collagen can reduce wrinkles

Why food and protein may matter more

The evidence behind tretinoin, vitamin C and peptides

How in-clinic treatments can stimulate collagen

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

🤍 Follow us on Instagram

👀 Watch us on ⁠Youtube⁠

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve StreeterMusic: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.
Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices