Gem Pursuit

What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart.

In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries.

We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing.

The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon.

Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga.

From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.

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Andy Warhol is one of the most recognisable artists of the 20th century, but after his death in 1987, it was what he owned that truly shocked the art world. Hidden inside his New York townhouse was a vast, obsessive, and deeply personal collection: furniture, fine art, kitsch, cookie jars, watches… and an extraordinary cache of jewellery he never wore in public.

In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol the collector — from flea-market finds to Cartier, from Elsa Peretti for Tiffany to surrealist jewels by Salvador Dalí, modernist designs by Jean Després and the aquamarine parure once worn by Joan Crawford.

We unpack the legendary Sotheby’s auctions that followed his death, the records they broke, and the moment a second secret stash of jewels and watches was discovered hidden in false-bottom drawers. A story of taste, obsession, secrecy, and the quiet extravagance behind one of art’s loudest icons.

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As the year turns, Matthew takes stock. In this New Year episode, he reflects on 2025 through the lens of a year spent travelling, learning, and paying close attention — from attending international fairs and events, to being nominated for and attending the TikTok Awards, and being elected to the Company of Goldsmiths in Dublin.

The conversation then widens to eight years in business at the shop, looking at what has genuinely changed in the jewellery world over that time — from the growing role of social media and self-education, to shifting ideas of expertise and authority. Matthew considers the rise of AI and digital tools in identifying antiques and reproductions, and where human knowledge, judgement, and experience still matter most.

Finally, he looks ahead to 2026, sharing thoughts on the metals, stones, styles, and movements that feel increasingly significant, as well as the fairs and moments worth watching in the year to come.

A considered reflection on jewellery, experience, and perspective — and on how the industry continues to evolve, often in unexpected ways.www.courtville.ie

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In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special.

From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling.

✨ Questions covered include:

• How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras?

• What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)?

• Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today

• Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is?

• The most popular antique engagement ring settings

• Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings

• Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered

• Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now

• Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn

• How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing)

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Jane Morris was a muse of the Pre-Raphaelites, a central figure in the early Arts & Crafts movement and the quietly powerful presence at the heart of an influential artistic circle.

In this episode, Matthew and Fenia explore the story behind Rossetti’s The Blue Silk Dress, focusing on the jewellery Jane wears and the symbolism carried within the portrait.

Drawing only on what is known from surviving records, letters and the painting itself, we trace Jane’s path from Oxford to her role within the Morris household and the artistic world that formed around it. The bracelet, the brooch, the rich textiles and embroidery — each reflects the ideals that would shape both the Pre-Raphaelite and Arts & Crafts movements.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck