Gem Pursuit: An Antique Jewellery Podcast

In this episode of Gem Pursuit, we tell the extraordinary story of one of history’s greatest lost diamonds - the legendary Florentine.

A pale yellow diamond of almost 140 carats, the Florentine passed through some of Europe’s most powerful dynasties, from the Medici family to the Habsburg emperors, before disappearing in the chaos that followed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

For more than a century, its fate remained one of the great unsolved mysteries in gem history. Was it stolen, recut, or lost forever?

Now, after over 100 years in the shadows, the Florentine has resurfaced - and its survival opens a new chapter in a story shaped by empire, exile, war and inheritance.

In this episode, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the stone’s disputed origins, its links to the Mughal world, its place in the Habsburg treasury, and the remarkable events that led to its rediscovery.

This is part three of our ongoing diamond series.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

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In the second part of our diamond series, we turn from science to history.

After exploring how diamonds form and how they are cut in Part I, this episode follows the extraordinary journey of the diamond through human history. From the ancient riverbeds of India to the great discoveries in Brazil and South Africa, we trace how diamonds moved across continents, empires and centuries.

Along the way we explore how diamond cutting evolved from simple polishing of natural crystals to increasingly sophisticated faceting techniques that transformed the stone’s beauty. From the earliest point cuts and table cuts to the rose cut, old mine cut and the beginnings of the modern brilliant, each development reflects changing technology, taste and the growing desire to unlock the diamond’s brilliance.

This is the story of how a rare natural curiosity became one of the most important gemstones in jewellery history.

In the next episode of this series, we’ll turn to one of the most mysterious diamonds ever known - the legendary Florentine.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen to podcasts, and if you have a moment please leave us a rating or review on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Diamonds form over billions of years, deep within the Earth's mantle under unimaginable pressure. But what makes them truly extraordinary isn’t only what nature creates - it’s also what human hands choose to do next.

In the first episode of our diamond series, we return to the stone we haven’t properly explored since the very early days of the podcast and ask a big question: where does nature end and craft begin?

We unpack how diamonds are formed, revisit the 4 Cs, and take a close look at the one element entirely controlled by people: cut. What does a cutter actually do? How do they decide what to sacrifice and what to preserve? And why can a great cut transform a cloudy pebble into something unforgettable?

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What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart.

In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries.

We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing.

The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon.

Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga.

From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.

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Andy Warhol is one of the most recognisable artists of the 20th century, but after his death in 1987, it was what he owned that truly shocked the art world. Hidden inside his New York townhouse was a vast, obsessive, and deeply personal collection: furniture, fine art, kitsch, cookie jars, watches… and an extraordinary cache of jewellery he never wore in public.

In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol the collector — from flea-market finds to Cartier, from Elsa Peretti for Tiffany to surrealist jewels by Salvador Dalí, modernist designs by Jean Després and the aquamarine parure once worn by Joan Crawford.

We unpack the legendary Sotheby’s auctions that followed his death, the records they broke, and the moment a second secret stash of jewels and watches was discovered hidden in false-bottom drawers. A story of taste, obsession, secrecy, and the quiet extravagance behind one of art’s loudest icons.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck