Gem Pursuit: An Antique Jewellery Podcast

Have you ever picked up a piece of antique jewelry and wondered how it got there? Behind every brooch, ring, or sapphire in a boutique window is a network of specialists: historians, gemologists, goldsmiths, appraisers, lapidaries, and dealers, each playing a role in the journey from discovery to display case.

In this episode, Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antiques breaks down the ecosystem of the antique jewelry trade, explaining who does what, how the roles connect, and what a typical week actually looks like across the industry.

Whether you already work in the trade or are considering entering it, this episode offers a candid guide to the many career paths within antique jewelry. Drawing on his own background, from studying gemology at the GIA to running Courtville and working alongside his family’s auction house, Matthew gives an honest picture of each role’s rewards and risks. From spotting overlooked treasures to the tension of handing a six-carat Burma sapphire to a lapidary, the episode makes the case that there is a place in this business for many different skill sets.

Key Takeaways

• Antique jewelry passes through many hands before reaching a buyer, often involving researchers, gemologists, appraisers, goldsmiths, and dealers.

• Gemologists identify and assess stones scientifically, while appraisers combine those findings with market data to produce legal valuations for insurance, probate, or resale.

• Skilled lapidaries are increasingly rare, creating challenges for businesses dealing with valuable antique stones.

• Auctions and private sales operate differently: auctions are strictly “as is,” while private dealers are bound by consumer protections and guarantees.

• Content creation has become a legitimate route into the industry, with creators and journalists building careers around shows, auctions, and trade coverage.

• Matthew’s philosophy on consignment is simple: if you would not buy a piece yourself, you should not expect someone else to.

Quotes

“On average here in Courtville, I would say we would look at between three and four thousand pieces of jewelry a week... How many pieces do we buy? On average, I'd say we're buying one to two percent of the pieces that we'd see.” — 27:23

“If you lose a piece of antique jewelry, you might have to source lots of different antique stones... You'll also have to get a jeweller to hand make the piece.” — 8:38

“Never a more accurate phrase than measure twice, cut once.” — 22:54

Resources

• GIA (Gemological Institute of America)

• Gem-A, London

• Wartsky’s, London

• Courtville Antiques — www.courtville.ie

• Miami Beach Antique Show

• Jewelry, Objects and Antique Show, New York

• Galerie Apollon, The Louvre

• The Smithsonian

• The V&A

• Musée des Arts Modernes, Paris

• L’École Van Cleef & Arpels

Socials & Contact

Instagram: @gempursuitpod

Instagram: @courtvilleantiques

TikTok: @matthew.weldon

Email: info@gempursuit.com

Selected Timestamps

(1:56) Why careers in antique jewelry matter

(4:48) Gemologist

(8:00) Types of valuation

(14:19) Goldsmith and restoration

(18:45) Lapidary and diamond cutter

(26:50) Antique jewelry dealer

(32:05) Auctions vs private market

(40:50) Content creator and jewelry journalist

(44:10) Museum and curatorial roles

(45:16) Jewelry designer

www.courtville.ie

Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok

This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

In this special Ask Me Anything episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon answers your jewellery and gemstone questions from how antique jewellery can be dated without hallmarks, to what truly makes a great emerald, and how newcomers can begin building a career in the jewellery trade.

Along the way, Matthew discusses men’s engagement rings, buying instinct versus expertise, the changing world of online jewellery selling, and some unforgettable pieces that have passed through the shop over the years.

Questions in this episode include:

💎 How do experts date jewellery without hallmarks?

💎 What makes a high-quality emerald?

💎 How have men’s engagement rings evolved over time?

💎 What’s the oldest piece Matthew has handled?

💎 How do you get started in the jewellery industry?

💎 What courses are actually worth taking?

www.courtville.ie

Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok

This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

Was the legendary Orlov Diamond once the eye of a Hindu idol before becoming part of the Russian Crown Jewels? In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenis Sigkoudi unravel the extraordinary story of the 189-carat diamond tied to Mughal emperors, Catherine the Great, theft, romance, and one of history’s greatest gem mysteries.

www.courtville.ie

Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok

This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the rarest diamonds in the world and one of the most mysterious. Its vivid green colour looks almost unnatural… but it’s entirely real.

In this episode, we explore how this extraordinary gem gets its colour from natural radiation deep within the Earth, why that makes it so exceptionally rare, and how it became one of Europe’s most treasured jewels. From royal collections to scientific fascination, the Dresden Green has captivated experts and admirers for centuries.

Is it really too green to be true? Or is it proof that nature can outdo even the most ambitious jeweller?

This is part of our ongoing diamond series.

If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

www.courtville.ie

Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok

This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck

For generations, the antique jewellery trade has been built on discretion, reputation and knowledge passed quietly from one dealer to another.

But that world is changing.

In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew sits down with The Jewel Geek to explore what it means to develop an eye for antique jewellery in a more open, digital age.

From early experiences buying at auction to building a network of trusted dealers, Brinder shares how his taste has evolved and how a combination of instinct, study and building relationships has helped him build a strong reputation in his short time in the trade.

Along the way, they discuss the realities of the trade: overpaying, missing out, learning to recognise quality, and understanding what actually sells. They also reflect on the growing role of social media, the importance of educating new collectors, and why antique jewellery may be more relevant now than ever.

www.courtville.ie

Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok

This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck