On The Scent

In this episode we’re partnering with Estée Lauder for the first in a new series: Fragrant Focus. This is where we take our time exploring a single scent - smelling it together and sharing our thoughts. And we have an exciting GIVEAWAY for you to enter! Listen and read on to find out how to enter, hear our reviews of Glimmer, and the beautiful inspiration behind its launch.

We have a plethora of exciting new launches to tell you about, from niche names, designer and heritage houses alike. But we begin with an emotional journey to capture the scent of something very special to Suzy…

MANE Dad’s Rose
Suzy got very emotional about this olfactory delivery, as MANE - a fragrance creation house in the U.K. who’ve made scents for some of the biggest brands out there - managed to capture the scent of a rise her father planted for her when she was a little girl. One of MANE’s standout innovations is their ‘Jungle Essence™’ technology. In some ways similar to ‘headspace’ captures of previously unusable materials in perfumery, these essences are utterly unique and exclusive to MANE. And to see it in action is just MIND BLOWING!

Jungle Essence™ is a patented, eco-friendly scent and flavor extraction technology created by the fragrance house MANE. It uses supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) to capture the exact, true-to-life aroma of a raw material—whether it is a spice used in men's cologne, a flower, or wood—without using harsh chemical solvents or high heat. You can hear all about the process in a special Patron only extra episode on patreon.com (search for ‘On the Scent podcast’ to find us)

Penhaligon’s The Manoeuvres of The Baroness
Suzy and Nicola got very excited about this latest character in the Portraits collection (and it’s an orange blossom - one of the notes they regularly swoon over!) Key notes
Orange Blossom, Chantilly, Sandalwood

‘Collector of secrets and quiet conspiracies, the Baroness has always ruled from the shadows. Orange blossom sparkles with influence next to Chantilly. A whispered order of sandalwood. She doesn’t outrun danger; she outsmarts it.’

Jil Sander collection
Both Suzy & Nicola were hugely impressed by the latest Jil Sander fragrances, and these were Suzy’s two favourites:

Lily
‘Caught by surprise by an enchanting perfume on a warm Florentine night.
Lilies are white, sensual flowers that primarily release their fragrance after sunset.
In Jil Sander Lily the aldehydes bring the flower's metallic, blooming facets to life, while the floral power of the CO₂ extracted Jasmine Sambac, the warmth of Benzoin from Vietnam, and the verticality of the upcycled Cypress structure and balance this luscious, radiant fragrance.
This new majestic Floral White Flower fragrance magnifies the ephemeral into a lasting form.’

Mahogony:
‘The supreme energy of a tropical forest captured into a scent.
For the depths of its hues where red turns to black, mahogany is one of the most fascinating trees.
Jil Sander Mahogany pays homage to this exceptional expression of nature in a fragrance that fuses upcycled Cedarwood with the profound leathery facets of Cypriol from India, the fizzy, spicy notes of CO₂ extracted Ginger, and the aldehydes.
A rich and sophisticated Woody Leathery fragrance that raises mahogany to new heights.’

Nicola was so impressed by how realistic the Jil Sander Sesame was (though admits she may not be brave enough to wear it yet), while Suzy thought it was cosy and comforting.

French Cowboy Mezcal Chocolate (available at Wild Iris)
Suzy continues to be wowed by this exciting new niche house, and cannot wait for cooler weather in which to indulge in this one.
‘Mezcal Chocolat is fueled by extraordinary raw materials. It hits like a shot of mezcal: it opens with a sparkling Lime Oil, sharpened by Olibanum from Somalia for smoky depth. To push it further, our perfumer added an ultra-rare Rhum extract (as costly as some of perfumery’s finest Iris!).
Instead of just a synthetic cacao accord, Mezcal Chocolat goes all in on Cacao Absolute: the most precious form of cocoa, used here in unprecedented amounts. Its creaminess melts into a bed of woods: Virginia Cedarwood, prized for its soft smoky creaminess, and Cypriol Oil from India, adding shadow, depth, and a dark, earthy glow.’

Byredo Future Memories
Another fascinating take on vanilla, and our hosts both adored the juicy blackcurrant note balance g the sweetness here. ‘Byredo captures the tension between now and next: an invitation to live fully, to choose deliberately, to imprint the present with intention. Held like a quiet mantra at the back of the mind, one question remains: What do you choose today, to remember tomorrow?

A scent crafted like a memory in motion.

The fragrance opens with the vivid green freshness of galbanum, illuminated by the juicy brightness of blackcurrant and a veil of aldehydes that diffuse light through the composition. At its heart, powdery iris unfolds alongside warm, resinous labdanum, creating a textured impression that settles gently onto the skin. In the base, vanilla emerges in full, enriched by Ambrofix and an intimate veil of musks lingering on the skin as a subtle trace of what remains.

Top Notes: Galbanum essence, blackcurrant accord, and fresh aldehydes for a bright, sparkling, and green start.
Heart Notes: Iris butter, labdanum resinoid, orange blossom, and white vanilla accord providing powdery floral warmth.
Base Notes: Madagascar vanilla CO2, vanilla liqueur accord, Ambrofix, and sensual musks.’

Nishane Thorns Become Roses
When a rose is velvety and gorgeous but still displays its sharpness… This is by Julien Rasquinet, and inspired by the Rumi quote "With love, thorns become roses"

‘Thorns Become Roses is a contemporary, contrast-driven rose that embodies transformation, evolving from a vivid, luminous opening into an intense floral heart, and settling into a deep, enveloping woody amber trail. Crafted as an extrait de parfum, it redefines the rose through a balance of tension and softness, offering a structured yet sensual and evolving olfactive experience.

Lychee and raspberry, luminous and vibrant, meet the metallic sharpness of saffron and cardamom, evoking the harsh brilliance of noon light on Petra’s cliffs.

At its heart, Turkish rose unfolds with dense, velvety depth, held in contrast by the green-leathery facets of violet leaf and the powdery softness of mimosa. A rose both thorned and tender, asserting its beauty through contrast.

The base settles into a mineral, enduring trail of amberwood and patchouli, softened by creamy sandalwood. Here, tension gives way to a quiet radiance, neither sweet nor austere, but balanced, tactile, and lasting.

Top Notes: lychee, raspberry, saffron
Heart Notes: rose, mimosa, blackcurrant
Base Notes: patchouli, amberwood, aetoxylon’

FRAGRANT FOCUS:
AD: Estée Lauder Glimmer
Extraordinarily, this is the first new main line fragrance for 12 years, and the first ever gourmand style fragrance for the house! But Suzy and Nicola think that unmistakable Lauder DNA shines through. Indeed, this a scent that celebrates shining - finding your own light and the things that lift you every single day.

Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Jean-Marc Chaillan are the incredible perfumers.

Top Notes: raspberry, orange blossom, milk mousse and mandarin
Heart Notes: Cashmeran, macarons, vanilla and rose
Base Notes: amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

Bright, sparkling and mouthwatering. Fruity-rosy raspberry, a fresh lift of mandarin, and a soft orange flower glow.
Warmer and more enveloping. Macaron Rose Accord comes forward with its gourmand impression, wrapped in the radiant depth of Amber Embrace Accord and Shimmering Patchouli, with a smooth, skin-warmed softness.
The fragrance settles into a lingering, addictive trail, a glowing blend of Amber, Patchouli, Woods and Tonka Bean notes. Still warmed by a whisper of sweetness that stays close and feels unforgettable.

Estée Lauder says:
This is the fragrance for life’s most extraordinary moments. It’s a scent not just to be worn, but to be felt, remembered, and shared. Because when you find what makes you glimmer, it lights up everyone around you.

For the full sizes, a beautiful rectangular bottle embodies femininity and strength. Sculpted semi-circles catch and reflect each ray of light. A circular gold-tone cap adds a luminous finish.

Travel Size:
The Travel Size is a deluxe mini fragrance spray. Perfect for on the go, to gift to a friend, or to try for the first time. 10ml travel size £25

Also comes in 30ml, 50ml & 100ml

GIVEAWAY:

We have a full size bottle of Glimmer to giveaway - see the post on our Instagram to enter!

How to enter: Follow both @onthescentpodcast and @esteelauderuk on Instagram, then like and comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram account. That’s it!

Entries must be made before 8.00 pm BST on Thursday, 3 September 2026. Because of delivery restrictions we can only accept entries from U.K. residents.

Terms...

We’re hanging on to summer with the fragrance launches discussed, and in what we’re wearing this week, but there is a noticeable change in the weather here in the U.K. There have even been sightings of socks, jackets, cardigans and knee-high boots on the streets! A week ago, such items were unthinkable, but now we’re almost looking forward to the seasons changing again.

ALMOST, but not quite yet. Not when there’s a plethora of new perfume discoveries to delve in to (many of which will prove incredibly versatile in cooler weather anyway, we feel). Quite apart from some exquisite new fragrant finds to welcome Nicola back from holiday with, we’ve two more of your utterly brilliant Listener Prescriptions to answer, and an exciting update from Madeline – the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter we helped find new fragrances for last week!

In this week’s episode we discuss:


Jo Malone London Sea Salt & Bergamot
‘Plunge into the exhilarating surf of the Celtic Sea. Immersed in the wild waters, every wave carries a fresh minerality. Joining a burst of bergamot, driftwood anchors this sea-salt fresh scent. Experience the untamed beauty of the British coast.

Top Note: bergamot
(Brightens with its sparkling, citrus freshness)

Heart Note: sea salt
(The crunchy nature of sea salt accord brings both texture and a sense of freshness and purity to the heart of the fragrance)

Base Note: driftwood
(Suffused with the saltiness of the sea, this accord brings a light woodiness to the fragrance)’


Jo Malone London Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense (recommend to listener in last week’s episode seeking clean / soapy iris fragrances!) Harrods

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other fragrances but can also be worn alone.’

Ex Nihilo Demon Dancer (Harrods)
‘Ex Nihilo recreates the defiant freedom of dance in motion.
Inviting you to move to your own rhythm, Ex Nihilo’s Demon Dancer is a call for ‘unapologetic self-expression’. Inspired by contemporary dance performance, the fragrance ignites an inner fire through energetic fruity notes that flow with freeing freshness and grounded intensity.

Top Notes: rhubarb, bergamot, peppermint, blood orange
Heart Notes: orange blossom, blackcurrant
Base Notes: georgywood, akigalawood, ambrofix, musks, tonka bean.’


Une Nuit Nomade Sun Bleached
‘Clean Linen Accord • White Flowers • Bergamot •Ambrette Absolute
Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, also known as the White City.

The sun drowns the immaculate walls with its rays. It is a bright light that makes eyes squint. Omanis wander the streets, elegantly wearing their dishdashas, a long white tunic decorated with a pom-pom that is delicately dipped in perfume.

'Sun Bleached' is adorned with freshness, in an accord of clean linen, white flowers and a zesty flight of citrus fruits as if biting into a piece of orange, with white musks and sandalwood rounding off its explosiveness.’


Connock London Pelago
‘A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with bright citrus and aromatic herbs, evoking the warmth of golden afternoons along sunlit shores.

Top Notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit.
Heart Notes: rosemary, neroli, petitgrain.
Base Notes: amber, vetiver.’

Roger & Gallet Neroli Solid Perfume
‘Discover your Néroli Wellbeing Fragrant Water in a new solid format to put on the neck, the neckline and the wrists. An alcohol-free perfume merging soflty with the skin. A new way to boost and facet your trail all day long. Enriched with rose essential oil, known for its relaxing benefits, the solid fragrance is a real caress onto the skin. Its rich and unctuous texture with vegetal waxes encapsulates the olfactive notes and keep the trail longer. A small and nomad format with an addictive gesture, to bring everywhere, wherever you are.’

French Cowboy Pear Pavlova
‘Almond, Ambrette Seeds, Jasmine, Meringue, Pear, Pink Pepper, Powdery Musk, Vanilla.

Ashley Santiago is the youngest perfumer at Givaudan and the co-founder of French Cowboy. California-born with Mexican-Caribbean roots, she honed her craft in Paris, New York & Singapore: blending global flavour with French savoir-faire.’


PERFUME PRESCRIPTIONS:

Update from Madeline (the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter from last week’s Correspondence Special episode):

‘OH MY GOODNESS GRACIOUS!!
Suzy and Nicola thankyou so so sooooo much for my prescription!!
When I saw that you had dropped a new episode WITH MY NAME IN THE NOTES I screamed!!!! It's perfect perfect PERFECT beyond words.
I have already ordered a bottle of the Map Of Hearts Valour and I am currently hunting for samples of the others you both suggested!!
I CANNOT wait to let you know how I go, l am so so sooooo excited to try them all!!’

(If we don’t have time this week: NEXT WEEK’S EPISODE, another Perfume Prescription special?)


Jessi - aka @grotesquex_o
‘hi suzy and nicola,

the day that you answered my cave perfume prescription was one of the best days of my life. i was hiking around the forest on a break at the museum in san francisco where i work, squealing and reveling in our shared zeal! ill remember the feeling forever. although i havent gotten my nose on that perfect perfume you found just yet, my sister and boyfriend know exactly what to get me for Christmas…

I’m writing to you humbly with the hope of another perfume prescription. i love cold incense perfumes, and found that my favorites (andrea maack craft and CDG avignon) have a chlorine note (to my nose at least, tho unlisted) that i crave. like the way your skin and hair smell after a swim in the pool, not the smell of sunscreen or tropical fruits that so often characterizes pool culture-inspired perfumes. are there any other cold, chlorinated, incense perfumes you love?’

Suzy’s Answer:

Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide
‘By Christopher Sheldrake. The fragrance features Sea water, Pepper, Mint, Musk, Incense, Olibanum, Ginger and Vetiver.’
‘"The situation was too hot for me to handle.” or “A chill ran down my spine.” I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, "tears of glass" come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool." - a note from the brand.’


Bibbi Swimming Pool
‘By Jérôme Epinette. Top notes are mint, basil and Ginger; middle notes are Eucalyptus and Geranium; base notes are Blonde Woods, Grass, White Wood, Ambroxan and Light Amber.
You completely forget about time and space when you swim in the pool. The water forces you to go through all the darkest hours and brightest moments of your life. After swimming in the pool, you will be forever changed and have an intense basil-like scent stuck to your skin forever.’


Heretic Nosferatu
‘SMELLS LIKE: An encounter with an apparition in the cold, damp caves of Count Orlok's castle.’
‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to present Nosferatu Eau de Macabre, a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. A chilling scent of wilting lilacs, velvety vegan ambergris and strikes of lightning that fill the air with petrichor and electricity—It's both delicate and hedonistic. Samples available.
Top Notes: lilac, ambrette
Heart Notes: petrichor, violet absolute, orris concrete, cypriol
BASE: vegan ambergris, oudh, labdanum.’


Pip:
‘Hi Suzie and Nicola. I’m looking for a perfume prescription. I’ve had a bit of a rollercoaster year, my partner and I were lucky enough to have a little boy together after IVF and it’s been a really incredible (though exhausting!) time. One of my oldest and dearest friends died a month before we had him and there’s not a day that goes by where I don’t think about her. I’m incredibly sad that we never got to share any of our boy mum moments together. She was always so positive though and down to earth, and I want to remember her with happiness, as well as have a comforting fragrance that will make me think of my little boy when he’s older and him of me. My memories of my friend when we were growing up together are scented with incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke. Thanks so much and thank you for keeping me company on my particularly sleep deprived days, I love listening to you both! Pip x’

Suzy’s answer:

The Perfumer’s Story Old Books by Azzi
‘Character: intelligent, eccentric, rock &...

We cannot tell you how much we LOVE receiving your questions and requests for
‘perfume prescriptions’ (something we’ve always specialised in at On the Scent
Podcast – it brings us such joy being able to match people to perfumes they’d
perhaps never tried or even heard of). And we get a LOT of DMs
@onthescentpodcast on Instagram, and messages on our On the Scent private
Facebook group, so here we are dedicating an episode to do a deep dive on two
fascinating fragrant conundrums...
Sometimes the prescription requests we get are to help find a ‘replacement’ for a
beloved signature scent that’s since been discontinued – to which we say, there’s
probably never going to be an exact match, but we can definitely guide you toward
trying some scents that match the vibe, the feeling that fragrance gave you when
you wore it, and the way it slotted into your life like a puzzle piece. We also get a
lot of requests for very specific scenarios, sometimes quite abstract themes or
intimate moments our listeners are seeking to scent! But when we think about
them more broadly, there’s ways of applying these scenarios (and the things the
listener needs to take from them: strength, motivation, comfort, energy...) to
aspects of our own lives.
In this correspondence special, we begin with some lovely feedback from a listener
who made a new discovery via a previous prescription suggestion, then we dive into
the two new requests, which are equally intriguing, and really showcase the kinds
of questions we get so many of and adore researching (often for hours!) to find the
perfect perfumes for.
Let’s begin!
Joanna said:
‘Dear Suzy and Nicola,
I can’t thank you enough for your amazing affordable iris prescriptions! Both sound
incredible and I will be definitely be hunting them down, especially Fragonard Belle
de Paris!
I especially want to thank you for your reviews of the new M&S perfumes. That
episode came out shortly before my trip to England from the States, and I
immediately added M&S to the itinerary! And WOW…Sheer Musk and Darkest
Vanilla are incredible! M&S perfumes are unavailable in America, so had my trip
been just a couple of weeks earlier I would have been completely out of luck, as I
would never have considered exploring M&S as a perfume haven without your
expert recommendation. I humbly beg you to do full reviews of the rest of the
Studio lineup! I feel that the interests of promoting truly exquisite super-affordable,
unique fragrances warrant such a podcast focus. Thank you for all you do for the
fragrance community!!’

Listener prescriptions:
Netta asks:
‘Hi! I recently discovered your podcast and I’m absolutely loving it. I’ve been binge
listening and enjoying every episode!!
I’ve always been obsessed with fragrance and smelling good, so it feels like I’ve
finally found my people.
I was wondering if you could recommend a perfume that’s similar to the
discontinued Armani Privé Pierre de Lune. I absolutely loved it and have never
managed to find anything that captures the same feeling. It had such a clean, soft,
almost soapy quality while still feeling fresh and elegant. I’d be so grateful for any
recommendations! Many thanks in advance, Netta.’
Daniela Andrier (well known for her love of iris) created Pierre de Lune, featuring
violet, iris, cassia & woody notes.
Suzy suggests:
Prada Infusion d’Iris
‘This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum,
orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and
vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.’
Fragonard Belle de Paris
Another stunning iris scent by Daniela Andrier. And only £42 for 100ml eau de
toilette! ‘Belle de paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its
incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear
brighten a generous heart of iris absolutely adorned with violet and incense. Musk
and white cedar form its base.’
27 87 Per sē
‘Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is
No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual
in a sensory experience.
“In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment.
This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet
its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’.
It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.”
Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral
bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo,
and a pinch of spicy pepper, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots,
and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.’
Nicola suggested:
Diptyque Fleur de Peau

‘A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of
their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of
Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, downy or soft. Highlighted with iris and ambrette
seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.
Absolute ambrette seed extract comes from hibiscus flowers. Its notes are
extraordinarily rich: sweet, slightly animal, fruity (like pear and plum).’

Madeline @rocknrollgypsy_13 asks:
‘Hello Suzy and Nicola! Fragrance goddesses!
Long time listener of the pod, I work on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley NSW
Australia and listening to both of you have gotten me through some long, long days
working by myself. My name is Madeleine and I was wondering if you could give me
a perfume prescription to empower and ground me.
Apart from being a musician, one of my other passions is Muay Thai. As a female
fighter I compete quite regularly, recently coming back from a life changing trip to
Bangkok where I competed at the WBC games winning a silver medal for Australia.
It was a tough fight and I know I could’ve done more to win that gold, but my mind
always seems to stop me before I even step over the ropes. My mentality is
something I always battle with, self-doubt, self-confidence and self-belief is always
what I struggle with. This is a weird kind of prescription, but I would like something
to wear before my fights, something that is empowering, fires me up, grounds me
and makes me feel like I am an unstoppable force going into the ring to face my
opponent. Think a goddess of war, powerful, strong, unbreakable and fierce.
Something to spray on before I warm up, or walk into the ring that grounds me,
centres me and reminds me of who I am.
I am open to anything, as my love for perfume has grown so much since listening
to you both. Much love always, thank you for all you do.
Madeleine xx’
Nicola’s answer:
Olfactive O New Earth
‘I am the host who cooks to the rhythm of the seasons, the one who pulls up an
extra chair before you’ve even asked. I believe in the beauty of things made by
hand - the thumbprint in the clay, the worn-in softness of a family heirloom. There
is quiet joy in walking the same path every day and noticing the first green shoots
of change. For me, luxury resides in the weight of a heavy linen shirt and the
simple, rhythmic task of chopping herbs from the windowsill pot. I am a life lived in
the present tense.
NOTES:

Luminous top: shiso, pink peppercorn, spearmint, elemi Present heart: deep-leaf
immersion, armoise, geranium, chamomile blue, cardamom, clary sage Rooted
base: hay absolute, fir balsam, oakmoss, myrrh
MOMENTS:
Nurturing my sourdough starter Fantasising of a life in the wilderness Leaving the
bookshop with just one more A cup of tea in the garden Seeking out the perfect
soulful escape’
Amouage Meander
‘The Amouage Meander eau de parfum explores the exhilarating feeling of
happiness in a land covered by fog – think lush green mountains and running
waterfalls covered in steamy clouds. Translating this surreal landscape using notes
of frankincense and vetiver, the rich greenery with cypriol and jonquille, and the
caramel-hued earth with sandalwood, carrot heart and orris root, this unique
fragrance captivates the senses and doesn’t let go even hours after being spritzed
on the pulses.’
Suzy’s answer:
Eris Parfums Ma Bête
‘MA BÊTE (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A
collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with
spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.’
‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)
Aldehydes, Tunisian Neroli, Indian Nutmeg
Indian Cypriol, Honduran Styrax, Indian Jasmine Sambac
Virginia Cedarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Synthetic Animalic Accord
‘After interviewing Master Perfumer Antoine Lie for Scent and Subversion, Barbara
asked him to help her create a collection of fragrances as bold as her favourite
vintage perfumes but for a modern audience.
Named after ERIS, the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, ERIS
PARFUMS is inspired by muses — divine, human, and fragrant — that exemplify
unconventional beauty and...

Okay, we all know vanilla has been trending for ages now, but WHY does it prove
so popular? We think half the reason is the sheer diversity of vanillas available,
and the incredibly high-quality materials perfumers are able to use these days.
Plus the fact that vanilla continues to be one of the most universally adored
scents. Love them or loathe them, we feel sure there’s truly something for every
taste (and maybe some that will surprise or even shock you) in this week’s
episode...
Now, obviously, we mean five favourites *each*, we couldn’t possibly contain
them all to only five vanillas when there are SO many excellent varieties of
vanilla fragrances around these days. We have to say, though, f you’re a vanilla
naysayer, please don’t shy away from this episode, as we’ve versions that segue
from the just-launched and fabulously tobacco-filled, the sweetly tempting and
addictive you might expect, to the mind-blowingly modern and unlike any vanilla
you’ve ever smelled.
Encompassing hip-swivelling seduction, a stunning body butter, hugely powerful
fragrant talismans, and summery every-day wearability, there’s also a truly
affordable modern classic vanilla – created by a Master Perfumer who trained at
Chanel, created scents for Frederic Malle, Guerlain, Gucci, Amouage and
Atkinsons, but THIS one can be snapped up for under £30!
While some of our top vanillas crossed over, we also surprised each other with
some of our choices. Now then, which have YOU tried or want to go and smell
after listening...?
We discuss:

D’Orsay Vanilla Affair Extrait
By Nathalie Lorson
‘Immerse yourself in the captivating mystique of D’ORSAY, with Vanilla Affair
extrait de parfum transforming your everyday allure into one of intriguing
elegance.
Its scent – reminiscent of forbidden encounters and fierce passion – is infused
with riveting notes of tobacco and tonka bean, deepened with a vanilla duo, and
grounded with a smoky base of white musks and patchouli. No matter the
occasion, its aromatic blend of exhilarating notes will elevate your essence with
ease.’

The Body Shop Vanilla Body Butter
‘This indulgent cream melts in beautifully, delivering up to 96 hours of hydration
without greasiness. Skin feels instantly softer, smoother and cared for. The
fragrance opens with juicy nashi pear and fresh coconut water, lifted by mood
orchid. At its heart, rich Madagascar vanilla tincture blends with upcycled vanillin
ex rice, creamy milk and heliotrope for a smooth, enveloping warmth. It settles
into a sensual base of vanilla absolute, sandalwood and second skin musk for a
long lasting, skin hugging finish. Every application is a warm, comforting routine.’
Jovoy Fire at Will
‘This perfume’s sweet promises echo around your like languorous kisses.
Crafted by independent perfumer Vanina Murraciole, Fire at Will eau de parfum
from JOVOY explores the duality of vanilla and mimosa – at once intense yet
subtle, seductive yet enchanting. The opening reveals an unexpected vanilla: airy
and ethereal, lifted by honeyed, powdery mimosa. As it evolves, the vanilla
becomes more gourmand and fruity, evoking the delicacy of real vanilla ice
cream while lingering with the allure of whispered promises.’
Top Notes: Mimosa Absolut, Vanilla Absolut
Middle Notes: Vanilla Sugar, Brown Sugar
Base Notes: White Musks, Amber Vetiver
Maison Louis Marie No.15 Vanille Infinie
‘Vanille Infinie, a luxurious and sweet gourmand, is a celebration of hope and
renewal. No.15 Vanille Infinie unfolds as a warm, luminous composition, soft vanilla
layered with citron, sugared amber and cashmere oud for gentle resinous warmth.
The Eau de Parfum evolves naturally on skin, shifting with your body heat to reveal
a smooth, enveloping trail that feels both intimate and enduring.’
Jeroboam Insulo
‘For François Hénin, the founder of Jeroboam, vanilla has always been the
absolute weapon of seductive souls. The ingredient is recognized throughout the
world as an irresistible enticement to be devoured. Insulo (meaning ‘island’ in
Esperanto) is used in this case as a code name for Madagascar, the island which
produces perhaps the highest quality and most famous vanilla in the world.
The olfactive pyramid of Insulo is incredibly simple with vanilla at the top, jasmine
at the heart and the signature blend of enigmatic musks at the base. These few
notes combine to produce a luxurious and irresistible.’
AKRO Bake
‘Bake is our addictive cupcake fragrance.
Everyone has their own favourite sweet treat, and for Akro, it's the small, but
perfectly delicious lemon cupcake—an item we just can’t resist any time we walk
past a good bakery. To honour our favourite cupcakes, we created BAKE, a

gourmand fragrance made up of Tart Lemon notes, followed by sweet Vanilla and
rich, nutty Praline. BAKE is so good, you might not need that second cupcake
after all.
TOP: Lemon peel
MIDDLE: Chantilly cream, Praline
BASE: Brown sugar, Vanilla.’
Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder
‘A sophisticated take on vanilla, diffusing like a bright, soft cloud. I contrasted
dark vanilla absolute with an overdose of modern white perfumer powders — as
if the vanilla bean had been painted white.
Palo Santo Oil Ecuador brings structure and verticality. The addictive character of
Vanilla is reinforced by Coconut powder. White Musks envelop the Vanilla and
powders for a contemporary, luminous perfume.’ - Aurélien Guichard
Rochas Tocade
One of THE best vanillas if you’re on a budget. Or even if you’re not, come to
that!
‘Originally launched in 1994, and composed by Maurice Roucel, Rochas Tocade
opens with a vibrant burst of bergamot and green notes, setting the stage for a
heart that blooms with the rich aromas of rose, geranium, and magnolia. These
floral elements are beautifully balanced by the warmth of vanilla and amber,
creating a harmonious blend that is both sensual and inviting. The base notes of
musk and cedarwood add depth and longevity, ensuring that this enchanting
fragrance lingers on your skin throughout the day.’

Season 8, Episode 7 Alice du Parcq & The Philosophy of Perfume (her
NEW BOOK!)
This week we welcome back dear perfume pal and friend of the pod (star of two
previous episodes), the multi-award-winning fragrance writer, presenter, content
creator and now AUTHOR, Alice du Parcq!
Alice has always been ‘on a mission to decode perfume in a fun, relatable and
objective way.’ Now, added to her perfumed portfolio will be an incredibly gift-
able (to self or scent-loving friends) book, created in collaboration with none
other than The British Library, called The Philosophy of Perfume. Out in October,
we cannot WAIT to read it, and in this episode, Alice gives us a sneak peek at
what you expect to find inside, plus the entire story of how the book came to be,
and why she burst into tears in a library.
We’ve even managed to wangle a must-sniff list of perfumes Alice has been
wowed by so far this year (not in the book, just a little scented extra to get you
scurrying to smell them). We loved this warm, emotive, wide-ranging
conversation and, as ever, could have talked to Alice for hours longer, and we so
hope you enjoy this deep dive into one of the most hotly anticipated books for
some time...
Some context about the British Library and this collection:
‘The British Library has an in-house publishing division, and they have an
established collection of around 18 books called "The Philosophy Of...". It's a
family of small giftable books that cover fun and whimsical lifestyle topics, such
The Philosophy of Cheese, The Philosophy of Christmas of Gin, of
Tattoos and of Houseplants, where an expert in that specific field dives into the
origins and evolution of that subject. In January, I was invited to do The
Philosophy of Perfume and it will sit within this collection but as a slightly
longer and more standout format. It's out in October, in time for the gifting
season, and the RRP is £12.99.’
About the book:
‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all
about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and
how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and
fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras
and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In
the book, you'llmeet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative
process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional
voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the
literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is
impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for
perfume and find The One(s!).
It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for
fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with
interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their
next scent shopping safari.’

Can’t wait until October? You can see Alice talking live, interviewed by the
wonderful Amanda Carr (founder of Barnes Fragrance Fair @barnesfragrancefair)
at the Barnes Bookfest sat 26 th September at 6pm, and get tickets and more
info here: https://barnesbookfest.org/

Fragrances Alice has adored so far this year:
Pia Long’s Olfiction Iconic (by name and nature! An utterly staggering vision of
1980s department stores, expensive makeup and body creams – nostalgia
personified)
Botega Venetta’s new Ulta collection (especially Bare Morning which Alice
feels is the longest-lasting most comforting powdery scent she’s smelled for
years)
Hellenist (all of them basically – a stunning house Suzy first saw at Pitti
Fragranze, and which we all very much hope will be available in U.K. soon)
Neal’s Yard Remedies Mood Awakening Collection (Alice loved how true
these felt to the brand’s ethos, and how they slotted so perfectly into their most
beloved collections)
Ode Ona (all of them, again – an exquisitely crafted and curated collection, all
worth exploring)