On The Scent

Are you feeling the need for snuggly scents yet? Suzy and Nicola are leaning into the cosiness in this week’s episode and have been gathering together some of new launches and favourite fragrances they’ve been wearing as autumn approaches. The discussion ranges from ultra-sophisticated gourmands encompassing chocolate and lattes, to a bohemian rose, a truly fantastic new woody scent, and an American niche tobacco fragrance Suzy fell for years ago and a listener kindly sourced a sample of for her. Plus, the #listenerprescription this week is for a ‘friendship fragrance’ to link and be shared by a listener and her best friend who is moving far away...
Tom Ford Tobacco Chocolat
By Daniela Andrier
‘TOM FORD has long been drawn to the sensual, masculine heat of tobacco – and now, the perfumer adds another iteration to its repertoire. Tobacco Chocolat is an eau de parfum founded upon the brand’s exclusive cocoa smoke accord, a note that fuses the rich, intoxicating quality of cocoa with the grounding earthiness of tobacco. Alongside this powerful core are a host of complimentary notes, from bright orange essence to balsam and patchouli, coming together to make a fragrance set to capture attention.
Top Notes: cocoa smoke co-distillation, Orange Essence
Middle Notes: peru balsam, chocolat noir grand cru delight
Base Notes: patchouli cœur Indonesia, Ambrofix.’

NEST New York Cardamom Latte
‘Like cashmere on bare skin, this spicy gourmand eau de parfum is endlessly wearable. The gentle heat of cardamom drifts through jasmine-laced air steeped in the creamy comfort of coconut milk.
Cardamom Latte unfolds like the perfect pour—layered and immersive. Heat blooms into softness. Spice melts into cream. Steam diffuses into air. Transforming your atmosphere with warmth you can feel. An enveloping fragrance that surrounds before it settles. Because comfort isn’t static. It’s fluid.’

Acqua di Parma Signatures of the Sun Cedar Virtuoso (& body cream)
‘Cedro Virtuoso celebrates the sensorial warmth of creation—the moment when an idea begins to take shape and inner confidence turns sensibility into emotion. Like the different stages of a creative process, the fragrance unfolds like a warm embrace, encouraging creativity to rise from within. Between vivid, vibrant notes and deeper, cocooning tones that accompany the journey from intuition to realization is the fragrance’s distinctive singularity: a co-infusion of Virginia cedarwood and hazelnut, whose encounter shapes a creamy woody signature.’
Miller Harris Scherzo Extrait
‘Developed at 30% concentration, Scherzo Extrait captures the vibrant spirit of the original Eau de Parfum while unveiling a deeper, more intoxicating signature. Bright, luminous sweetness meets newfound richness and warmth, allowing the fragrance to bloom with a more immersive intensity for lasting presence.
The fragrance opens with the familiar rush of tangerine and davana, radiating vibrant fruity luminosity. At its heart, delicate peony blooms abundantly alongside crisp pittosporum, while a new dimension begins to emerge: a more sumptuous and velvety rose, enrobed in golden honey and entwined with creamy vanilla for a richer sensuality, its floral radiance enhanced by threads of incense to bring light and vibration. Together, they introduce a magnetic tension, guiding the fragrance towards more mysterious territory.
At the base, shimmering oudh unfolds with greater texture, amplified by intensified patchouli and moss. The introduction of smooth amber woods brings warmth and refinement, creating a striking counterpoint to the fragrance's signature sweetness. As these richer notes emerge, they reveal new facets of its character.
The result is a fragrance which is radiant yet mysterious, vibrant yet profound, with a more enduring and enveloping trail.’
HEAD NOTES:
Tangerine*, Davana* (herb with a fruity, sweet, tea like smell, member of the Artemisia family.)
HEART NOTES:
Rose Nectar Accord, Peony, Olibanum* (Frankincense), Pittosporum.
LASTING IMPRESSIONS:
Patchouli*, Vanilla, Oudh, Moss, Amber Woods, Sweet Note.
Sonoma Scents Tabac Aurea
‘Tabac Aurea has an enticing golden amber drydown and a pipe tobacco note that is enjoyed by women as well as men. It’s smooth and softly gourmand, with notes of amber, woods, spices, tobacco, leather, tonka, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla. The amber accord combines dry earthy notes with sweet elements and subtle fruity touches to create an addictive, beautiful, golden aura. One of our top three best-selling scents.’
Ormonde Jayne Sybarite
Nicola has been finding great comfort and energy in this, lately. It’s the only store-exclusive founder and creative director Linda Pilkington has allowed for her own Royal Arcade boutique, this was so worth the wait. A perfect melange of creamy hazelnut and orris butter, it’s the Timur pepper and the effervescently spiced sparkle it adds to the composition that ties it all together. Utterly unique, and beautifully balanced, it’s the finer things in life lovingly bottled. Those craving outside London: call or email them for information.
Perfume Prescription:
Luci Tither:
‘Hi lovely ladies, you very kindly gave me a perfume prescription for a magical trip to Porto last year (excellent recommendation of Claus Porto). And I wondered if you'd indulge a second prescription if I may. I loved the notion of a friendship fragrance mentioned in a recent episode. It really struck a chord with me as my best friend is very sadly moving to Canada from the UK early next year and although I'm very happy for her, I'm going to miss her immensely. I wondered if it would be at all possible to help us find a fragrance that we could both wear whenever we meet, and will remind us of each other when we're apart.
She loves a gourmand like Bianco Latte, Seven Virtues Vanilla Amber or skin scents like Not A Perfume and Phlur Not Your Baby. For me, I love clean, powdery skin scents (like Molecule Iris, Prada Infusion), and warm sandalwood/ambery scents (think Sana Jardin Sandalwood Temple, BDK Vanilla Leather). We also both love a rogue option like Dries Van Noten Fleur de Mal, BDK Rouge Smoking Jacket and Amouage Guidance.
Apologies for the long message - I hope you can suggest something that we'd both love and can make being thousands of miles apart that bit easier. Thank you in advance - your podcast is very much my happy place on my commute to work. Xx’

Suzy thinks it’s definitely worth trying a sample of Estée Lauder Glimmer (and the Acqua di Parma Cedro Virtuoso), and also suggests:
Molton Brown Milk Musk Eau de Toilette
Milk gently laps at luscious notes of pear, delicate florals and sheer white musk, while Ambroxan and cashmere add that skin-on-skin warmth. Scented contentment awaits, tender as a fluttery kiss, softly embracing rather than swaddling.
Fischersund Faux Flora No. 1
Encompassing the life cycles of plants and humans alike, this scent ‘springs from universal experiences.’ A sparkle of bergamot’s brightness is swathed by ‘mountain milk’, cool, pristine and porcelain-like, warming to salty iris’s mortal muskiness.

Eris Parfums Mothers Milk
Antoine Lee’s ‘primordial gourmand’ blends buttery orris and vanilla with hyper-realistic warm milk, subverting the soft-focus skin-swaddled kiss of comfort, as ‘good’ mother (rosily nurturing) becomes ‘bad’ (suede-like, sultry). Think fairytale mother turned Joan Crawford.
Maison Louis Marie Bois de Balincourt (You can get a mini travel set with the oil and EDP, so could purchase one to share, perhaps?)
‘Bois de Balincourt is inspired by our family home, nestled deep within an ancient forest. Along a trail we fondly called Lover’s Lane, generations wandered under towering trees, surrounded by stillness and memory. This signature scent layers creamy sandalwood and cedar with warming cinnamon and nutmeg, anchored by earthy vetiver — a romantic, comforting fragrance with effortless depth.’
Olfactive O Skin
Nicola had the brilliant idea of using this scent as your shared ‘base’ layer, which you can wear alone or layer with any other perfume you have. That way, she thought you’d always be grounded in the same scent. Suzy then had the idea if you both ordered bottles, you could use then personalise them – each full-size bottle of Skin extrait comes with a fingerprint ink pad and blank label for this purpose!
Olivia, the founder, describes Skin as: ‘...for everyone, universal yet deeply personal. The delicate balance of notes blends with your skin chemistry to create the absolute essence of you – unmistakable and compelling. It can be applied on its own or worn in combination with any of the other personality scents to magnify and enhance your unique scent. I am the alchemist, the musician, the storyteller. I am confident in my own skin and never need to pretend. I confound expectations and you’ll keep coming back to me, intrigued and charmed. I am sun-warmed skin on the beach, tousled hair, the cool of cotton sheets at the end of the day.’

This week Suzy & Nicola are pondering the resurgence of iris - one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery made modern by exploring it in surprising ways. From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of our star buys year… There’s a lot to love!

After discussing what else we’ve fallen for lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; we asked Scott (@blublazer guy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh.

On the show:

Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new)
Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, nor to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’.

Creed Iris Debonair
‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials.

Head Notes
Bergamot & Absinthe, Pink Pepper, Cardamom

Heart Notes
English Lavender, Violet Leaf, Fig Pulp Accord

Base Notes
French Iris Pallida, Ambrette, Amberwood’

Boots Last Note Echoes of You
50ml fragrance priced at £12.99 from the debut "Last Note" collection. It features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk, and a warm amber base.

Top: Pink pepper
Heart: Iris, cashmere musk
Base: Warm amber

Merchant of Venice Renaissance
‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle.

Top Notes: Galbanum, Orange Blossom Absolute, Saffron
Heart Notes: Iris, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather, Akigalawood
Base Notes: Ambrofix™, Vanilla, Frankincense (Incense), Musk.’

Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods)
‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber.

Top Notes: oud, leather
Middle Notes: damask rose
Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’

Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (Wild Iris)
‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way.
At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’

Givenchy L’Interdit Elixir
‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman.
The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where Orange Blossom, Tuberose, and Jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract.
Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds through the richness of Rum Absolute, Davana Essence, and Vanilla Extract, leaving behind a deeply enveloping trail. Fused with the skin, the fragrance becomes a captivating aura of confidence — a pure expression of empowered femininity.’

Giorgio Armani I WILL
‘A sensual strength forged through time, I WILL awakens tenacity with confidence and leaves an intense, unmistakable trail. Created by Nathalie Lorson and Alberto Morillas, it opens with bergamot and cardamom, develops through lavender and violet leaf, and settles into Madagascan vanilla with a woody leather accord.’

Flaner fragrances: new Australian niche fragrance boutique in East London. You can listen to a live recording of Suzy and Amanda Carr visiting their stunning shop and hearing all about the collection on an exclusive extra episode. Head to patreon.com here to sign up for an extra episode every week:

https://www.patreon.com/u84518038

Suzy’s favourites from Flaner were:

Sonic Silver
‘Inspiration: Tram tracks connecting city streets
The sun peaks through the clouds after rain, glistening off the sleek silver tracks. Urban landscapes echo past, providing a window into the irreverent spirit of an eclectic city with backdrop of thunderous rhythm of metal. Imbuing the artistic spirit found in the canvas of urban laneways, this fragrance captures the raw, urban edge of a city's atmosphere to create something truly unique.

Notes:
Top: Basil, Lavender, Bergamot
Middle: Metallic, Petrichor, Cardamom
Base: Asphalt & Tar, Green Patchouli, Musk & Tonka.’

Manhattan Cherry
‘Inspiration: Speakeasies of Manhattan
A laneway door opens and down a flight of stairs a small room with leather chairs, dark woods and the faint smell of tobacco signals a forbidden and mysterious world. Dimly lit and intimate, the night invites indulgence and seduction. A sensual tryst of cherry and dark bourbon, this fragrance evokes the boldness and intoxicating allure that comes from the Manhattan cocktail, in Manhattan of course.’
Enjoy responsibly.

Notes:
Top: Maraschino cherry, Red vermouth, Orange peel
Middle: Bourbon, Ginger, Cinnamon
Base: Amber wood, Tobacco, Leather, Vanilla

Listener prescription:

Ashley Burk
‘Hello! :) I have been listening to your podcast for years and years! I feel like you both have been traveling with me around the world because you have now helped me find fragrances to wear in Greece, Ireland, and Japan! This October I got myself a ticket to go to Edinburgh, Scotland and was wondering if you could recommend me some perfume to wear while I go for a week. I will be doing the Harry Potter steam train day trip one of the days! If you know of any perfume stores I should see in Edinburgh please let me know as well. I am so excited to be there during October. Thank you both! :)’

Who better to turn to than our friend Scott @blublazerguy (who happens to live in Edinburgh) and suggested:

Kingdom Scotland Portal
‘Ancient forest. Still air. The scent of Scotland before the world arrived.
A green woody chypre eau de parfum that opens on crushed heather and wild herbs, deepens into cool fern and forest moss, and settles into a long, intimate base of oakmoss, vetiver, and peat-warmed cedar.’

Jorum Studio Boswelia Scotia
‘Royal Green Hojari Frankincense, Pink Pepper, Saffron, Cistus, Sandalwood Mysore, Cypriol, Patchouli, Black Hemlock, Fir Balsam, Olibanum Absolute.

A golden veil of gossamer-light. Royal Green Hojari Frankincense soothed by fir balsam and black hemlock. Boswellia Scotia is incense reimagined; translucent, atmospheric and quietly magnetic.’

ANFORH Aire
‘Crisp citrus, cool ozonic air, and dry vetiver - Aire is clarity bottled. Fresh, textured, and quietly confident.

Fresh, zesty, and mineral. Green mandarin and Calabrian bergamot open with a burst of citrus brightness before giving way to the cool lift of ozonic air and the dry, earthy depth of vetiver. A fragrance that moves with energy and purpose, settling into a steady, confident calm.

From the Scots word "aire" (a gravel-shored coastal edge where land meets sea), Aire captures the sensation of standing on a coastal edge, breathing in invigorating, mineral air as light breaks across the water. It’s bright, citrus-driven, and full of energy - the feeling of movement and clarity. Inspired by the Scottish coastline, it balances natural vibrancy with grounded calm.’

Suzy suggests visiting Jorum Studio’s shop (incredible Scottish fragrance brand)

Jorum

In this episode we’re partnering with Estée Lauder for the first in a new series: Fragrant Focus. This is where we take our time exploring a single scent - smelling it together and sharing our thoughts. And we have an exciting GIVEAWAY for you to enter! Listen and read on to find out how to enter, hear our reviews of Glimmer, and the beautiful inspiration behind its launch.

We have a plethora of exciting new launches to tell you about, from niche names, designer and heritage houses alike. But we begin with an emotional journey to capture the scent of something very special to Suzy…

MANE Dad’s Rose
Suzy got very emotional about this olfactory delivery, as MANE - a fragrance creation house in the U.K. who’ve made scents for some of the biggest brands out there - managed to capture the scent of a rise her father planted for her when she was a little girl. One of MANE’s standout innovations is their ‘Jungle Essence™’ technology. In some ways similar to ‘headspace’ captures of previously unusable materials in perfumery, these essences are utterly unique and exclusive to MANE. And to see it in action is just MIND BLOWING!

Jungle Essence™ is a patented, eco-friendly scent and flavor extraction technology created by the fragrance house MANE. It uses supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) to capture the exact, true-to-life aroma of a raw material—whether it is a spice used in men's cologne, a flower, or wood—without using harsh chemical solvents or high heat. You can hear all about the process in a special Patron only extra episode on patreon.com (search for ‘On the Scent podcast’ to find us)

Penhaligon’s The Manoeuvres of The Baroness
Suzy and Nicola got very excited about this latest character in the Portraits collection (and it’s an orange blossom - one of the notes they regularly swoon over!) Key notes
Orange Blossom, Chantilly, Sandalwood

‘Collector of secrets and quiet conspiracies, the Baroness has always ruled from the shadows. Orange blossom sparkles with influence next to Chantilly. A whispered order of sandalwood. She doesn’t outrun danger; she outsmarts it.’

Jil Sander collection
Both Suzy & Nicola were hugely impressed by the latest Jil Sander fragrances, and these were Suzy’s two favourites:

Lily
‘Caught by surprise by an enchanting perfume on a warm Florentine night.
Lilies are white, sensual flowers that primarily release their fragrance after sunset.
In Jil Sander Lily the aldehydes bring the flower's metallic, blooming facets to life, while the floral power of the CO₂ extracted Jasmine Sambac, the warmth of Benzoin from Vietnam, and the verticality of the upcycled Cypress structure and balance this luscious, radiant fragrance.
This new majestic Floral White Flower fragrance magnifies the ephemeral into a lasting form.’

Mahogony:
‘The supreme energy of a tropical forest captured into a scent.
For the depths of its hues where red turns to black, mahogany is one of the most fascinating trees.
Jil Sander Mahogany pays homage to this exceptional expression of nature in a fragrance that fuses upcycled Cedarwood with the profound leathery facets of Cypriol from India, the fizzy, spicy notes of CO₂ extracted Ginger, and the aldehydes.
A rich and sophisticated Woody Leathery fragrance that raises mahogany to new heights.’

Nicola was so impressed by how realistic the Jil Sander Sesame was (though admits she may not be brave enough to wear it yet), while Suzy thought it was cosy and comforting.

French Cowboy Mezcal Chocolate (available at Wild Iris)
Suzy continues to be wowed by this exciting new niche house, and cannot wait for cooler weather in which to indulge in this one.
‘Mezcal Chocolat is fueled by extraordinary raw materials. It hits like a shot of mezcal: it opens with a sparkling Lime Oil, sharpened by Olibanum from Somalia for smoky depth. To push it further, our perfumer added an ultra-rare Rhum extract (as costly as some of perfumery’s finest Iris!).
Instead of just a synthetic cacao accord, Mezcal Chocolat goes all in on Cacao Absolute: the most precious form of cocoa, used here in unprecedented amounts. Its creaminess melts into a bed of woods: Virginia Cedarwood, prized for its soft smoky creaminess, and Cypriol Oil from India, adding shadow, depth, and a dark, earthy glow.’

Byredo Future Memories
Another fascinating take on vanilla, and our hosts both adored the juicy blackcurrant note balance g the sweetness here. ‘Byredo captures the tension between now and next: an invitation to live fully, to choose deliberately, to imprint the present with intention. Held like a quiet mantra at the back of the mind, one question remains: What do you choose today, to remember tomorrow?

A scent crafted like a memory in motion.

The fragrance opens with the vivid green freshness of galbanum, illuminated by the juicy brightness of blackcurrant and a veil of aldehydes that diffuse light through the composition. At its heart, powdery iris unfolds alongside warm, resinous labdanum, creating a textured impression that settles gently onto the skin. In the base, vanilla emerges in full, enriched by Ambrofix and an intimate veil of musks lingering on the skin as a subtle trace of what remains.

Top Notes: Galbanum essence, blackcurrant accord, and fresh aldehydes for a bright, sparkling, and green start.
Heart Notes: Iris butter, labdanum resinoid, orange blossom, and white vanilla accord providing powdery floral warmth.
Base Notes: Madagascar vanilla CO2, vanilla liqueur accord, Ambrofix, and sensual musks.’

Nishane Thorns Become Roses
When a rose is velvety and gorgeous but still displays its sharpness… This is by Julien Rasquinet, and inspired by the Rumi quote "With love, thorns become roses"

‘Thorns Become Roses is a contemporary, contrast-driven rose that embodies transformation, evolving from a vivid, luminous opening into an intense floral heart, and settling into a deep, enveloping woody amber trail. Crafted as an extrait de parfum, it redefines the rose through a balance of tension and softness, offering a structured yet sensual and evolving olfactive experience.

Lychee and raspberry, luminous and vibrant, meet the metallic sharpness of saffron and cardamom, evoking the harsh brilliance of noon light on Petra’s cliffs.

At its heart, Turkish rose unfolds with dense, velvety depth, held in contrast by the green-leathery facets of violet leaf and the powdery softness of mimosa. A rose both thorned and tender, asserting its beauty through contrast.

The base settles into a mineral, enduring trail of amberwood and patchouli, softened by creamy sandalwood. Here, tension gives way to a quiet radiance, neither sweet nor austere, but balanced, tactile, and lasting.

Top Notes: lychee, raspberry, saffron
Heart Notes: rose, mimosa, blackcurrant
Base Notes: patchouli, amberwood, aetoxylon’

FRAGRANT FOCUS:
AD: Estée Lauder Glimmer
Extraordinarily, this is the first new main line fragrance for 12 years, and the first ever gourmand style fragrance for the house! But Suzy and Nicola think that unmistakable Lauder DNA shines through. Indeed, this a scent that celebrates shining - finding your own light and the things that lift you every single day.

Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Jean-Marc Chaillan are the incredible perfumers.

Top Notes: raspberry, orange blossom, milk mousse and mandarin
Heart Notes: Cashmeran, macarons, vanilla and rose
Base Notes: amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

Bright, sparkling and mouthwatering. Fruity-rosy raspberry, a fresh lift of mandarin, and a soft orange flower glow.
Warmer and more enveloping. Macaron Rose Accord comes forward with its gourmand impression, wrapped in the radiant depth of Amber Embrace Accord and Shimmering Patchouli, with a smooth, skin-warmed softness.
The fragrance settles into a lingering, addictive trail, a glowing blend of Amber, Patchouli, Woods and Tonka Bean notes. Still warmed by a whisper of sweetness that stays close and feels unforgettable.

Estée Lauder says:
This is the fragrance for life’s most extraordinary moments. It’s a scent not just to be worn, but to be felt, remembered, and shared. Because when you find what makes you glimmer, it lights up everyone around you.

For the full sizes, a beautiful rectangular bottle embodies femininity and strength. Sculpted semi-circles catch and reflect each ray of light. A circular gold-tone cap adds a luminous finish.

Travel Size:
The Travel Size is a deluxe mini fragrance spray. Perfect for on the go, to gift to a friend, or to try for the first time. 10ml travel size £25

Also comes in 30ml, 50ml & 100ml

GIVEAWAY:

We have a full size bottle of Glimmer to giveaway - see the post on our Instagram to enter!

How to enter: Follow both @onthescentpodcast and @esteelauderuk on Instagram, then like and comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram account. That’s it!

Entries must be made before 8.00 pm BST on Thursday, 3 September 2026. Because of delivery restrictions we can only accept entries from U.K. residents.

Terms...

We’re hanging on to summer with the fragrance launches discussed, and in what we’re wearing this week, but there is a noticeable change in the weather here in the U.K. There have even been sightings of socks, jackets, cardigans and knee-high boots on the streets! A week ago, such items were unthinkable, but now we’re almost looking forward to the seasons changing again.

ALMOST, but not quite yet. Not when there’s a plethora of new perfume discoveries to delve in to (many of which will prove incredibly versatile in cooler weather anyway, we feel). Quite apart from some exquisite new fragrant finds to welcome Nicola back from holiday with, we’ve two more of your utterly brilliant Listener Prescriptions to answer, and an exciting update from Madeline – the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter we helped find new fragrances for last week!

In this week’s episode we discuss:


Jo Malone London Sea Salt & Bergamot
‘Plunge into the exhilarating surf of the Celtic Sea. Immersed in the wild waters, every wave carries a fresh minerality. Joining a burst of bergamot, driftwood anchors this sea-salt fresh scent. Experience the untamed beauty of the British coast.

Top Note: bergamot
(Brightens with its sparkling, citrus freshness)

Heart Note: sea salt
(The crunchy nature of sea salt accord brings both texture and a sense of freshness and purity to the heart of the fragrance)

Base Note: driftwood
(Suffused with the saltiness of the sea, this accord brings a light woodiness to the fragrance)’


Jo Malone London Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense (recommend to listener in last week’s episode seeking clean / soapy iris fragrances!) Harrods

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other fragrances but can also be worn alone.’

Ex Nihilo Demon Dancer (Harrods)
‘Ex Nihilo recreates the defiant freedom of dance in motion.
Inviting you to move to your own rhythm, Ex Nihilo’s Demon Dancer is a call for ‘unapologetic self-expression’. Inspired by contemporary dance performance, the fragrance ignites an inner fire through energetic fruity notes that flow with freeing freshness and grounded intensity.

Top Notes: rhubarb, bergamot, peppermint, blood orange
Heart Notes: orange blossom, blackcurrant
Base Notes: georgywood, akigalawood, ambrofix, musks, tonka bean.’


Une Nuit Nomade Sun Bleached
‘Clean Linen Accord • White Flowers • Bergamot •Ambrette Absolute
Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, also known as the White City.

The sun drowns the immaculate walls with its rays. It is a bright light that makes eyes squint. Omanis wander the streets, elegantly wearing their dishdashas, a long white tunic decorated with a pom-pom that is delicately dipped in perfume.

'Sun Bleached' is adorned with freshness, in an accord of clean linen, white flowers and a zesty flight of citrus fruits as if biting into a piece of orange, with white musks and sandalwood rounding off its explosiveness.’


Connock London Pelago
‘A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with bright citrus and aromatic herbs, evoking the warmth of golden afternoons along sunlit shores.

Top Notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit.
Heart Notes: rosemary, neroli, petitgrain.
Base Notes: amber, vetiver.’

Roger & Gallet Neroli Solid Perfume
‘Discover your Néroli Wellbeing Fragrant Water in a new solid format to put on the neck, the neckline and the wrists. An alcohol-free perfume merging soflty with the skin. A new way to boost and facet your trail all day long. Enriched with rose essential oil, known for its relaxing benefits, the solid fragrance is a real caress onto the skin. Its rich and unctuous texture with vegetal waxes encapsulates the olfactive notes and keep the trail longer. A small and nomad format with an addictive gesture, to bring everywhere, wherever you are.’

French Cowboy Pear Pavlova
‘Almond, Ambrette Seeds, Jasmine, Meringue, Pear, Pink Pepper, Powdery Musk, Vanilla.

Ashley Santiago is the youngest perfumer at Givaudan and the co-founder of French Cowboy. California-born with Mexican-Caribbean roots, she honed her craft in Paris, New York & Singapore: blending global flavour with French savoir-faire.’


PERFUME PRESCRIPTIONS:

Update from Madeline (the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter from last week’s Correspondence Special episode):

‘OH MY GOODNESS GRACIOUS!!
Suzy and Nicola thankyou so so sooooo much for my prescription!!
When I saw that you had dropped a new episode WITH MY NAME IN THE NOTES I screamed!!!! It's perfect perfect PERFECT beyond words.
I have already ordered a bottle of the Map Of Hearts Valour and I am currently hunting for samples of the others you both suggested!!
I CANNOT wait to let you know how I go, l am so so sooooo excited to try them all!!’

(If we don’t have time this week: NEXT WEEK’S EPISODE, another Perfume Prescription special?)


Jessi - aka @grotesquex_o
‘hi suzy and nicola,

the day that you answered my cave perfume prescription was one of the best days of my life. i was hiking around the forest on a break at the museum in san francisco where i work, squealing and reveling in our shared zeal! ill remember the feeling forever. although i havent gotten my nose on that perfect perfume you found just yet, my sister and boyfriend know exactly what to get me for Christmas…

I’m writing to you humbly with the hope of another perfume prescription. i love cold incense perfumes, and found that my favorites (andrea maack craft and CDG avignon) have a chlorine note (to my nose at least, tho unlisted) that i crave. like the way your skin and hair smell after a swim in the pool, not the smell of sunscreen or tropical fruits that so often characterizes pool culture-inspired perfumes. are there any other cold, chlorinated, incense perfumes you love?’

Suzy’s Answer:

Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide
‘By Christopher Sheldrake. The fragrance features Sea water, Pepper, Mint, Musk, Incense, Olibanum, Ginger and Vetiver.’
‘"The situation was too hot for me to handle.” or “A chill ran down my spine.” I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, "tears of glass" come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool." - a note from the brand.’


Bibbi Swimming Pool
‘By Jérôme Epinette. Top notes are mint, basil and Ginger; middle notes are Eucalyptus and Geranium; base notes are Blonde Woods, Grass, White Wood, Ambroxan and Light Amber.
You completely forget about time and space when you swim in the pool. The water forces you to go through all the darkest hours and brightest moments of your life. After swimming in the pool, you will be forever changed and have an intense basil-like scent stuck to your skin forever.’


Heretic Nosferatu
‘SMELLS LIKE: An encounter with an apparition in the cold, damp caves of Count Orlok's castle.’
‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to present Nosferatu Eau de Macabre, a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. A chilling scent of wilting lilacs, velvety vegan ambergris and strikes of lightning that fill the air with petrichor and electricity—It's both delicate and hedonistic. Samples available.
Top Notes: lilac, ambrette
Heart Notes: petrichor, violet absolute, orris concrete, cypriol
BASE: vegan ambergris, oudh, labdanum.’


Pip:
‘Hi Suzie and Nicola. I’m looking for a perfume prescription. I’ve had a bit of a rollercoaster year, my partner and I were lucky enough to have a little boy together after IVF and it’s been a really incredible (though exhausting!) time. One of my oldest and dearest friends died a month before we had him and there’s not a day that goes by where I don’t think about her. I’m incredibly sad that we never got to share any of our boy mum moments together. She was always so positive though and down to earth, and I want to remember her with happiness, as well as have a comforting fragrance that will make me think of my little boy when he’s older and him of me. My memories of my friend when we were growing up together are scented with incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke. Thanks so much and thank you for keeping me company on my particularly sleep deprived days, I love listening to you both! Pip x’

Suzy’s answer:

The Perfumer’s Story Old Books by Azzi
‘Character: intelligent, eccentric, rock &...

We cannot tell you how much we LOVE receiving your questions and requests for
‘perfume prescriptions’ (something we’ve always specialised in at On the Scent
Podcast – it brings us such joy being able to match people to perfumes they’d
perhaps never tried or even heard of). And we get a LOT of DMs
@onthescentpodcast on Instagram, and messages on our On the Scent private
Facebook group, so here we are dedicating an episode to do a deep dive on two
fascinating fragrant conundrums...
Sometimes the prescription requests we get are to help find a ‘replacement’ for a
beloved signature scent that’s since been discontinued – to which we say, there’s
probably never going to be an exact match, but we can definitely guide you toward
trying some scents that match the vibe, the feeling that fragrance gave you when
you wore it, and the way it slotted into your life like a puzzle piece. We also get a
lot of requests for very specific scenarios, sometimes quite abstract themes or
intimate moments our listeners are seeking to scent! But when we think about
them more broadly, there’s ways of applying these scenarios (and the things the
listener needs to take from them: strength, motivation, comfort, energy...) to
aspects of our own lives.
In this correspondence special, we begin with some lovely feedback from a listener
who made a new discovery via a previous prescription suggestion, then we dive into
the two new requests, which are equally intriguing, and really showcase the kinds
of questions we get so many of and adore researching (often for hours!) to find the
perfect perfumes for.
Let’s begin!
Joanna said:
‘Dear Suzy and Nicola,
I can’t thank you enough for your amazing affordable iris prescriptions! Both sound
incredible and I will be definitely be hunting them down, especially Fragonard Belle
de Paris!
I especially want to thank you for your reviews of the new M&S perfumes. That
episode came out shortly before my trip to England from the States, and I
immediately added M&S to the itinerary! And WOW…Sheer Musk and Darkest
Vanilla are incredible! M&S perfumes are unavailable in America, so had my trip
been just a couple of weeks earlier I would have been completely out of luck, as I
would never have considered exploring M&S as a perfume haven without your
expert recommendation. I humbly beg you to do full reviews of the rest of the
Studio lineup! I feel that the interests of promoting truly exquisite super-affordable,
unique fragrances warrant such a podcast focus. Thank you for all you do for the
fragrance community!!’

Listener prescriptions:
Netta asks:
‘Hi! I recently discovered your podcast and I’m absolutely loving it. I’ve been binge
listening and enjoying every episode!!
I’ve always been obsessed with fragrance and smelling good, so it feels like I’ve
finally found my people.
I was wondering if you could recommend a perfume that’s similar to the
discontinued Armani Privé Pierre de Lune. I absolutely loved it and have never
managed to find anything that captures the same feeling. It had such a clean, soft,
almost soapy quality while still feeling fresh and elegant. I’d be so grateful for any
recommendations! Many thanks in advance, Netta.’
Daniela Andrier (well known for her love of iris) created Pierre de Lune, featuring
violet, iris, cassia & woody notes.
Suzy suggests:
Prada Infusion d’Iris
‘This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum,
orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and
vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.’
Fragonard Belle de Paris
Another stunning iris scent by Daniela Andrier. And only £42 for 100ml eau de
toilette! ‘Belle de paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its
incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear
brighten a generous heart of iris absolutely adorned with violet and incense. Musk
and white cedar form its base.’
27 87 Per sē
‘Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is
No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual
in a sensory experience.
“In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment.
This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet
its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’.
It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.”
Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral
bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo,
and a pinch of spicy pepper, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots,
and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.’
Nicola suggested:
Diptyque Fleur de Peau

‘A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of
their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of
Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, downy or soft. Highlighted with iris and ambrette
seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.
Absolute ambrette seed extract comes from hibiscus flowers. Its notes are
extraordinarily rich: sweet, slightly animal, fruity (like pear and plum).’

Madeline @rocknrollgypsy_13 asks:
‘Hello Suzy and Nicola! Fragrance goddesses!
Long time listener of the pod, I work on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley NSW
Australia and listening to both of you have gotten me through some long, long days
working by myself. My name is Madeleine and I was wondering if you could give me
a perfume prescription to empower and ground me.
Apart from being a musician, one of my other passions is Muay Thai. As a female
fighter I compete quite regularly, recently coming back from a life changing trip to
Bangkok where I competed at the WBC games winning a silver medal for Australia.
It was a tough fight and I know I could’ve done more to win that gold, but my mind
always seems to stop me before I even step over the ropes. My mentality is
something I always battle with, self-doubt, self-confidence and self-belief is always
what I struggle with. This is a weird kind of prescription, but I would like something
to wear before my fights, something that is empowering, fires me up, grounds me
and makes me feel like I am an unstoppable force going into the ring to face my
opponent. Think a goddess of war, powerful, strong, unbreakable and fierce.
Something to spray on before I warm up, or walk into the ring that grounds me,
centres me and reminds me of who I am.
I am open to anything, as my love for perfume has grown so much since listening
to you both. Much love always, thank you for all you do.
Madeleine xx’
Nicola’s answer:
Olfactive O New Earth
‘I am the host who cooks to the rhythm of the seasons, the one who pulls up an
extra chair before you’ve even asked. I believe in the beauty of things made by
hand - the thumbprint in the clay, the worn-in softness of a family heirloom. There
is quiet joy in walking the same path every day and noticing the first green shoots
of change. For me, luxury resides in the weight of a heavy linen shirt and the
simple, rhythmic task of chopping herbs from the windowsill pot. I am a life lived in
the present tense.
NOTES:

Luminous top: shiso, pink peppercorn, spearmint, elemi Present heart: deep-leaf
immersion, armoise, geranium, chamomile blue, cardamom, clary sage Rooted
base: hay absolute, fir balsam, oakmoss, myrrh
MOMENTS:
Nurturing my sourdough starter Fantasising of a life in the wilderness Leaving the
bookshop with just one more A cup of tea in the garden Seeking out the perfect
soulful escape’
Amouage Meander
‘The Amouage Meander eau de parfum explores the exhilarating feeling of
happiness in a land covered by fog – think lush green mountains and running
waterfalls covered in steamy clouds. Translating this surreal landscape using notes
of frankincense and vetiver, the rich greenery with cypriol and jonquille, and the
caramel-hued earth with sandalwood, carrot heart and orris root, this unique
fragrance captivates the senses and doesn’t let go even hours after being spritzed
on the pulses.’
Suzy’s answer:
Eris Parfums Ma Bête
‘MA BÊTE (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A
collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with
spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.’
‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)
Aldehydes, Tunisian Neroli, Indian Nutmeg
Indian Cypriol, Honduran Styrax, Indian Jasmine Sambac
Virginia Cedarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Synthetic Animalic Accord
‘After interviewing Master Perfumer Antoine Lie for Scent and Subversion, Barbara
asked him to help her create a collection of fragrances as bold as her favourite
vintage perfumes but for a modern audience.
Named after ERIS, the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, ERIS
PARFUMS is inspired by muses — divine, human, and fragrant — that exemplify
unconventional beauty and...