Paperback Perfumes

“These empires, however, have no power of the language of scent. Scent in situ resides outside of oppressive systems. Despite a massive market valuation for scented products, the language of scent itself cannot be commodified, owned or managed”

- Catherine Hayley Epstein, Cognitive Impacts of Scent’s Languagelessness: A Persuasive Palette to Infuse Imagination and Healing, Nose Magazine, Issue 2 : Primed

Saskia Dodds‑Painter is the founder of KOLIDO, a hands‑on perfumery based in the Yarra Valley on Wurundjeri Country, and the creator of Nose Magazine, an independent print publication dedicated to cultivating olfactive curiosity. Working with a small team, Saskia approaches scent as both craft and storytelling, designing and producing every perfume in‑house — from early formulation to bottling and shipping. Nose Magazine extends this creative vision into print, exploring the cultural and emotional dimensions of smell and appearing in stockists across Australia, Europe, the UK, and the US.

In this episode, we explore how Saskia brings together her passion for scent, language, and community through the launch of KOLIDO and Nose. The conversation highlights the creative processes behind innovative fragrances, the importance of language in shaping how we experience scent, and the community‑driven approach that defines niche perfumery. Saskia shares how curiosity, experimentation, and collaboration guide her work, offering listeners insight into the evolving world of independent fragrance.

Kolido fragrances mentioned:
70s Taxi
Bareback
Placebo
Nymphetta

Writing discussed:
Nose Magazine - Issue 1: Top notes
Nose Magazine - Issue 2: Primed

Find Nose Magazine and Kolido at:
Instagram:
@nose.mag
@kolido__

Website:
nosenosenose.com
kolido.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records

Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

“Perfume is a language whose speech is worth learning and unpacking as one would a poem, book, or film. Scent is a path to getting closer to our senses, to instinct, and to our bodies and the earth at a time when those attachments are threatened.”
Barbara Herman, Scent & Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume

Barbara Herman is a writer, vintage‑perfume historian, and the founder of ERIS Parfums, a fragrance house inspired by the bold, unconventional beauty of classic perfume styles. Her journey began with collecting and researching vintage fragrances, which led her to create the blog Yesterday’s Perfume and later write Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume, a book exploring the cultural and artistic history of scent . Her fascination with the expressive power of perfume eventually evolved into creative collaboration with perfumer Antoine Lie, resulting in ERIS Parfums — a brand known for its daring, boundary‑pushing compositions that pay tribute to the past while speaking to a modern audience.
In this episode, we explore the nuanced world of fragrance through vintage perfumes, challenge expectations as well as personal politics, and act as a form of artistic subversion.

Fragrances mentioned:
Lauren - Ralph Lauren
Grey Flannel - Geoffrey Been
Polo - Ralph Lauren
Madeline de Madeline - Madeline Mono
Nuit de Noel - Caron
My Sin (Mon Peche) - Lavin
Baghari - Robert Piguet

Writing discussed:
Scent & Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume - Barbara Herman
Lolita - Vladamir Nabokov
Alice’s Adventure In Wonderland - Lewis Carroll
Dune - Frank Herbert
Rebecca - Daphne De Maurier
Miss Benson’s Beetle - Rachel Joyce
The Giving Tree - Shel Silverman

Find Barbara and ERIS parfums at:
Instagram:
@erisparfums
@perfumaniac

Website:
barbaraherman.com
erisparfums.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

“There is a type of person who starts to GLOW FROM WITHIN when talking about perfumery…”
- Pia Long, Excerpt from ‘Demo Accords’, featured in ‘On The Scent’ magazine, Issue 1 .

Jo Fairley is a celebrated writer, journalist, and one of the most influential voices shaping how we understand and talk about fragrance. As co‑founder of On The Scent magazine (and it’s inclusion in a burgeoning media empire), she has spent decades translating the invisible world of scent into stories that explore memory, culture, and the emotional power of perfume. Her award‑winning writing has helped build a bridge between the perfume industry and everyday readers, making the language of fragrance more accessible, expressive, and deeply human.

Alongside her work in scent journalism, Jo is also known for co‑founding Green & Black’s Organic Chocolate, a brand that reflects her instinct for storytelling, design, and thoughtful creation. Her entrepreneurial spirit and editorial eye come together in everything she builds, especially in her mission to cultivate community within the fragrance world.

In this episode, Jo shares her journey through perfume writing, the evolution of scent culture, and the magic behind creating a groundbreaking magazine dedicated to fragrance. It’s a conversation about creativity, connection, and the way scent helps us understand ourselves and the world around us.

Fragrances mentioned:
Shocking - Elsa Schiaparelli
Néroli Amara - Van Cleef & Arpels
Eau des Sens - Diptyque
Petitgrain - Perfumer H

Writing discussed:
On The Scent Magazine: Issue 1 (Digital Copy)

Find Jo and On The Scent Media:
Instagram:
@jofairley
@onthescentmedia

Website:
onthescentmedia.com

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

“If you could go back, who would you want to meet?”

― Toshikazu Kawaguchi, Before the Coffee Gets Cold

Delphine McPhilimey brings a quiet, intentional artistry to the world of natural perfumery, and this episode explores the depth behind her craft. A French‑born artisan perfumer, her path has taken her from traditional perfumery studies to hands‑on workshops in Bali, eventually leading her to establish Olfactora in West Leederville, Western Australia. Her work is shaped by a deep respect for natural materials, the discipline of classical technique, and the slow, thoughtful rituals that give fragrance its emotional resonance.
Olfactora reflects this philosophy: a studio devoted to the beauty of considered creation, where people can learn, explore, and experience scent in its most authentic form. Delphine blends traditional craft with a contemporary, sustainable approach, creating perfumes that feel personal, expressive, and grounded in nature. Every experience in her studio honours refined craftsmanship and the quiet depth of raw materials.
This episode also steps into the whimsical world of ‘Before the Coffee Gets Cold’ by Toshikazu Kawaguchi, a Japanese novel that explores time, acceptance, and connection - an unexpected but fitting companion to Delphine’s approach to scent. Through storytelling, philosophy, and the discipline of natural perfumery, she reveals how fragrance becomes a bridge between memory, emotion, and the moments that shape us.

Fragrances mentioned:
Coffee Break - Maison Margiela/Replica
Awake - Akro
Ember Shan - Byermia
Brown Flowers - D.S. & Durga
Opium - Yves Saint Laurent

Book discussed:
Before the Coffee Gets Cold - Toshikazu Kawaguchi

Find Delphine and Olfactora on
Instagram:
@olfactora

Website:
olfactora.com.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

“You will always be fond of me. I represent to you all the sins you never had the courage to commit.”

― Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray

Grimoire Perfumes founder Troy (Trung) Vu joins us to explore the rich intersection of fragrance, aesthetics, mythology, and artistic expression. A self‑taught perfumer, Troy’s creative path winds through years as a classically trained dancer, a makeup artist, and a decade spent in luxury retail and cosmetics. These experiences shape his approach to scent as an invisible art form built on instinct, memory, structure, and imagination.
Troy shares how the golden era of perfumery—from the 1920s to the late ’90s—continues to influence his work, inspiring fragrances that are bold, character‑driven, and unburdened by trend. His world is steeped in folklore, ritual, the macabre, and global mythologies, all of which inform the tone and storytelling behind each Grimoire creation.
We also dive into the role of aesthetics through exploring classic literature the The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde.

Fragrances mentioned:
Caleche - Hermes
Gold Woman - Amouage
Ambre Eccentrico - Armani Prive
Florabotanica - Balenciaga
Garden Roses - Burberry

Book discussed:
The Picture of Dorian Gray - Oscar Wilde

Find Troy and Grimoire Parfums on
Instagram:
@troyperfumes
@grimoireparfums

Website:
grimoireparfums.com.au

Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records
Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.